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Thread: Got Sharpening Questions?

  1. #61
    Theory's video, he strops on felt towards the end.

  2. #62
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    New York, NY
    best grit to stop at for gyuto?

  3. #63
    Quote Originally Posted by TheDispossessed View Post
    best grit to stop at for gyuto?
    I've read that going higher than 6-8k on a gyuto is pointless

  4. #64
    I think it depends what you are going to be cutting as well. If I am just going to be cutting a bunch of mirepoix, dicing potatoes, etc I don't think that moving up to a finishing stone would even be necessary. At that point it would all be a question of preference. I remember when I was working Garde Manger station during tomato season I would often stop sharpening my gyuto after just a 1k. The rough toothy edge was perfect for the soft super ripe heirlooms. Would I ciseler some shallots or chop chives with that knife? No I would reach for a different knife with a smoother more polished edge.

    My point is that the grit of your finishing stone and the degree of polish on your finished edge can be subjective.
    "There's more to cooking than opening a can, CAN I SAY THAT CHEF?!"

  5. #65
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    I've got a gyuto that is pretty thick just behind the edge. It needs thinning. I do sharpening on the Wicked Edge myself, but this device is less suited for thinning at pretty low angles. I cannot do had sharpening.

    No my question what type of sharpening is most suited for thinning. I know a guy who's pretty good with his belt sander and also a guy that uses paper wheels.

    What is most suited to my case? The gyuoto has a kuruchi that I'd like (at least in part) to remain preserved.

  6. #66
    Senior Member Benuser's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Amstelveen, The Netherlands
    I would fear the risk of overheating with any powered equipment. Coarse sandpaper, e.g. Robert Bosch "Metall" with linen backing, starting at P120, would be my choice. Edge trailing strokes only.

  7. #67
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Martell View Post
    Hi T,
    Do you mean that you laid the knife down pretty low and cut a wide (or tall) bevel at a shallow angle?

    What's your normal progression?

    Precisely. Now the bevel is really tall (particularly so on the right side...I'm working on being more consistent). My normal progression is Chosera 1000, Chosera 3000, and I just just got a 5000 Naniwa superstone. I strop with diamond on felt for burr removal between grits, then I'll strop once or twice each side on plain leather at the end. Thanks for your time!


  8. #68
    Quote Originally Posted by tbott View Post
    I have a question:

    I am not a seasoned sharpener by any means, but I've certainly improved over the six or so months that I've become much more serious about it. The problem is, when I was starting out I made quite a few mistakes being a bit overzealous. One of which was widening the bevel dramatically on a Konosuke Fujiyama gyuto. How does one take it back down? Do I just need a low-grit stone to just grind it down and make the profile of the knife way shorter and start over? I've kept the wide bevel mostly because I simply didn't know how else to deal with it, and I sharpen it at that angle now, though it doesn't seem to take a particularly keen edge anymore. Help with the fix would be greatly appreciated (it would honestly probably be best to post a picture of how bad it is but frankly I'm embarrassed!)

    I think this is an awesome question! I'd love to hear more responses

    We're talking about opening up the primary bevel/cutting edge, right?

    This is a problem I had for awhile and didn't really realize. I thought that doing so was a sign of me going at a proper, acute angle. What I realized is that it was really a sign of improper pressure - too much (for me), and too far behind the edge. I started seeing that most of the 'high end' knives shown here had very little visible bevel, and got a few knives that had killer OOTB edges that put mine just to shame - again with almost no visible bevel. I could be wrong, but I think opening up the bevel so much weakens the edge and can cause easier rounded edges.

    What I've found to help fix previous mistakes is to thin the edges (and right behind it) on a coarse stone, which makes the previous bevel less pronounced, and then set a new one, focusing on not being too heavy handed and putting pressure right on the edge. I've been happier with my edges (and how long they last) since doing this.

  9. #69
    Quote Originally Posted by greasedbullet View Post here is one from Kramer at the 9:50 mark. It is on a strop but it is pretty much the same thing. Also on a chef knife.

    Quote Originally Posted by Talim View Post
    Theory's video, he strops on felt towards the end.
    thanks for both of these. they were equally really helpful while being somewhat different in their approaches, notably their approach while stropping with the blade. looking forward to finding my own preferred method.

  10. #70
    Senior Member ThEoRy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Central Jersey
    Quote Originally Posted by Talim View Post
    Theory's video, he strops on felt towards the end.
    Starts around 10:15
    Starting this harvest I'm a starving startling artist/
    Lyrical arsonist it's arduous spitting this smartest arsenic/

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