Theory's video, he strops on felt towards the end. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dW_sA...re=c4-overview
I think it depends what you are going to be cutting as well. If I am just going to be cutting a bunch of mirepoix, dicing potatoes, etc I don't think that moving up to a finishing stone would even be necessary. At that point it would all be a question of preference. I remember when I was working Garde Manger station during tomato season I would often stop sharpening my gyuto after just a 1k. The rough toothy edge was perfect for the soft super ripe heirlooms. Would I ciseler some shallots or chop chives with that knife? No I would reach for a different knife with a smoother more polished edge.
My point is that the grit of your finishing stone and the degree of polish on your finished edge can be subjective.
"There's more to cooking than opening a can, CAN I SAY THAT CHEF?!"
I've got a gyuto that is pretty thick just behind the edge. It needs thinning. I do sharpening on the Wicked Edge myself, but this device is less suited for thinning at pretty low angles. I cannot do had sharpening.
No my question what type of sharpening is most suited for thinning. I know a guy who's pretty good with his belt sander and also a guy that uses paper wheels.
What is most suited to my case? The gyuoto has a kuruchi that I'd like (at least in part) to remain preserved.
I would fear the risk of overheating with any powered equipment. Coarse sandpaper, e.g. Robert Bosch "Metall" with linen backing, starting at P120, would be my choice. Edge trailing strokes only.
We're talking about opening up the primary bevel/cutting edge, right?
This is a problem I had for awhile and didn't really realize. I thought that doing so was a sign of me going at a proper, acute angle. What I realized is that it was really a sign of improper pressure - too much (for me), and too far behind the edge. I started seeing that most of the 'high end' knives shown here had very little visible bevel, and got a few knives that had killer OOTB edges that put mine just to shame - again with almost no visible bevel. I could be wrong, but I think opening up the bevel so much weakens the edge and can cause easier rounded edges.
What I've found to help fix previous mistakes is to thin the edges (and right behind it) on a coarse stone, which makes the previous bevel less pronounced, and then set a new one, focusing on not being too heavy handed and putting pressure right on the edge. I've been happier with my edges (and how long they last) since doing this.