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Spirograph Nakiri WIP.
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Thread: Spirograph Nakiri WIP.

  1. #1

    Spirograph Nakiri WIP.

    Im gona do a mini WIP on this one. Its my take on a Nakiri.

    Randy Jr forged me this kick butt billet of Spirograph damascus a few months back. and I have been trying to figure out what pattern blade to make that would really show off the pattern of the damascus, A few guys on the board made some suggestions and after doing some research, I settled on a Nakiri.

    This will have a western/Wa handle Ala Delbert Ealy (I asked him if I could try his method and he graciously said I could) Hope I do it justice.

    The specs so far.

    OAL 358mm or 14 1/8 inches.
    BLADE 210mm or 8 3/8 inches
    Thickness 2.5mm ish Thinking I may surface grind this down to about 2mm Open to suggestions.
    Heel height 56mm or 2 3/16 inches. tapering slightly to50mm one inch behind the front of the blade.
    Handle will be 130mm ish long with the front at 24mm and the back tapering to 28mm

    This is my first attempt at this pattern blade and I gota say, It went against every fiber in my being to not have a tip or a point on this.. lol Yet after looking at hundreds of pictures and reading everything I can find about the knife. I had to give it a try!

    So far I have the Blade Heat treated and rough profiled. I may still make some minor changes to the profile to make the knife better, and am open to suggestions. Currently it feels good on the board, with a very gentle roll from the front to the heel.

    I have a few questions??

    For the main bevels, I was thinking flat grinds. Taking them a little over half the height of the blade. But may take the grinds all the way to the spine. Should the grind and cutting edge continue up the flat at the tip/front of the blade?

    Would 2mm thickness be preferable? or should I leave it at 2.55mm?

    Any and all other suggestions of changes or modifications that will make this a better cutter are welcomed!


    Im gona wait a couple days to see what you guys think and if any changes are in order B4 I move forward on this project..

    Thanks for looking. and stay tuned. Ill be adding WIP pics and info.

    Stay Sharp
    Randy, HHH knives

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    Inspired by God, Forged by Fire, Tempered by Water, Grounded by Earth, Guided by the spirit.. Randy Haas

    Availible Knives

  2. #2
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    Looking funky
    I'd put in some distal taper keeping it around 2.5 at the handle down to 1mm towards the tip. On my nakiri the bevels go just under halfway up the blade face and I like the way it cuts, haven't tried a fully ground one though so I may like that more.......
    The edge doesn't extend up the flat front of the knife, when I've seen this it's on meat cleavers/butchery knives.
    Hopefully someone with a carter or a shige nakiri will chime in, they seem to be the best regarded

  3. #3
    Totally funky!

    2.5 at the heel is perfectly good. The front doesn't need an edge. As for the bevel height .... I might be thinking the wrong thing or getting my terminologies mixed up, but I think you'll probably end up with something that feels better in the hand if you have a spine to edge taper going the whole way with the actual "cutting bevel" (that could well be a flat bevel) starting at 5mm out from the edge itself. I hope I'm not making things worse with my kludgy description

    If you're thinking about going flat faced for the top half, with a "shinogi" kind of separation between top and bottom half... that'd be pretty different from what I've used. Might work a-ok in terms of cutting, but I wonder if the extra mass would do something odd with the feel and handling.
    Len

  4. #4
    Whoa Randy that looks awesome. What a piece of steel. I like the shape and geometry also. Really nice... Color me unsurprised!

  5. #5
    Thanks guys! Funky sounds about right!!!

    OK so basically spine thickness of 2.5mm at the heel tapering down to 1sh near the front .. Got it..

    Len, I think you saying full grinds. Thats what It seems like your describing? In most of the photos I have seen, The grind or main bevels are about half height. Yet I think most of the pics were showing single bevel knives. So the half height grind makes sense..

    Inspired by God, Forged by Fire, Tempered by Water, Grounded by Earth, Guided by the spirit.. Randy Haas

    Availible Knives

  6. #6
    I think I'm describing a full grind Gradual taper from spine to edge, but still with a slightly more obtuse final bevel nearer to the edge. Gotta love the imprecision of laymen trying to communicate

    A nakiri is definitely a double-bevel knife, though. A single bevel would mean a usuba, a very different beast in terms of geometry and behaviour. Nakiri are great knives to use anyhow, in my opinion
    Len

  7. #7
    Got it, Your description is right on, Just making sure. IMO having a full grind will make for a better cutting tool with less drag.. Thanks Len for your input.

    Its a KNIFE LIFE!
    Randy

    Inspired by God, Forged by Fire, Tempered by Water, Grounded by Earth, Guided by the spirit.. Randy Haas

    Availible Knives

  8. #8
    You don't need a cutting edge on the front edge.

    2.5mm at the spine above the heel is fine, just have plenty of distal taper towards the tip and thinner towards the cutting edge. It can even taper drastically at the spine in the first inch or so from 2.5mm to 2mm or less. Convex/blended bevels the entire blade face from spine to edge. The single bevel knives you saw with a tall bevel on the right hand side of the knife is for a usuba. Similar overall shape, but very different in grind and use. You basically want to grind this the same as you would a gyuto/chefs knife.

    Profile looks good and choil looks comfy!
    "God sends meat and the devil sends cooks." - Thomas Deloney

  9. #9
    Thanks for the input guys. If theres no other info you guys feel will be important, I can move to the next step on this one!

    Inspired by God, Forged by Fire, Tempered by Water, Grounded by Earth, Guided by the spirit.. Randy Haas

    Availible Knives

  10. #10
    Randy, I just checked 3 of my nakiri to check on their geometries.

    1 is basically flat ground from spine towards the edge, then pretty abruptly about 1cm from the edge changes to the actual cutting bevel. It's not a smooth transition at all on this one. It doesn't sound great, but this is actually the one I use most often, so it still works well.

    The other 2 are similar to each other in that they are very gradually full-ground convex. There's no abrupt transition, but the "apex" of the convex, as it were, is about 2/3 or 3/4 of the way to the edge and you can see a very different angle on that last 1/3 or 1/4. One of these two is, in fact, a Shigefusa.

    There is no appreciable difference in their spine widths over the heel. In any case, all three taper as you move towards the "tip".

    Hope that helps!

    Len
    Len

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