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Thread: A knife for Mark by Markman

  1. #11
    Weird Wood Pusher Burl Source's Avatar
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    More work on the blade

    Both flats finished to 600 grit.



    Cleaned up the swedge with a Diafold and put some marker on it so when I sand the flats one more time I can see if I have a nice flowing line.





    Cleaning up the bolster with a 600 Diafold.



    Finishing the choil with an EDM stone.



    Before finishsanding to 1000 grit I will put th final shape and finish on the handle because now I have the final shape of the bolster.
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  2. #12
    Weird Wood Pusher Burl Source's Avatar
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    To make the handle to it's final shape I like to have a small step between the handle and the bolster.
    I do this by cutting a narrow strip of masking tape and wrap that around the bolster.
    I grind close to the maskingtape and do the rest by hand until the fourth layer of tape starts coming off so I get a even step of three layers all around the bolster.



    Cover the blade with a piece of bycicle innertube because accidentally hitting an almost finished blade with a fast moving 40 grit belt is not funny......



    Getting ready to grind the handle close to the maskingtape.



    I have split a 220 belt to about 3/4" to get into the tight curves of the handle.
    Make sure to break the edges of the split belt so they do not dig into handle.





    Handle roughly shaped.



    Hand sanding to the maskingtape with 120 grit.
    I will peel off the first layer of tape with 400 grit.

    Mark Farley / Burl Source
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  3. #13
    Weird Wood Pusher Burl Source's Avatar
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    Handle sanded to 400. I do not like highly polished handles so I use an oil I got from a dutch knife maker that really pops the grain and fills any voids or checks in the wood with the oil and sandingdust.
    You can see the first layer of tape coming off.



    Handle at 800 grit with the magic oil. It has a bit of resin in it so it hardens with time and gives a very nice satin finish.



    Handle at 1000 grit.



    Overall vieuw with it's little brother wich I am making for myself.
    Now comes finish sanding.



    I use a piece of plastic tube because it fits the transition to the bolster and it sands faster.
    I do not have to readjust the paper everytime, I just turn the tube a little while sanding.
    It also gives more pressure on a smaller surface wich gives the paper more bite.

    Mark Farley / Burl Source
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  4. #14
    Weird Wood Pusher Burl Source's Avatar
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    Blade sanded to 800. Logo is next.



    I put a strong light under the blade so I can see where to put the stencil. It takes the guessing out of it.
    Stencil from Ernie Grospitch.



    I use a batterycharger and a Q-tip and a bit of salted water.



    Stuff used to do the etch.
    Next is sanding to 1200 and etching the blade.



    Blade sanded to 1200. It looks nice as it is, not sure if I want to etch it......

    Mark Farley / Burl Source
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  5. #15
    what kind of battery charger? love the knife. need a simple low-cost way to etch :
    Tom Gray, Seagrove, NC

  6. #16
    Weird Wood Pusher Burl Source's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tgraypots View Post
    what kind of battery charger? love the knife. need a simple low-cost way to etch :
    I will try to ask Erik about the charger Tom.

    Here is more progress on the handle.

    For rounding the butt end of the handle I put a piece of tape around it as a guide.


    Started sanding with the mistery oil.
    Anything that is off will get corrected at this point.



    Sanded to 1200 while using the oil.
    Another advantage of sanding with the oil is that the paper keeps cutting even at 1200.



    The handle is finished, I will keep oiling and sanding the oil in the next few days.
    It has at least 15 coats of oil by now.

    Mark Farley / Burl Source
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  7. #17
    Is it necessary to use so much oil if it's been stabilized? Or is it just part of his method for getting the belts to cut and give the finish he likes?

    This is cool. Those big fighter handles always seemed the best way to show off a stunning piece of wood.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by BurkeCutlery View Post
    Is it necessary to use so much oil if it's been stabilized? Or is it just part of his method for getting the belts to cut and give the finish he likes?
    This is cool. Those big fighter handles always seemed the best way to show off a stunning piece of wood.
    My understanding is that Erik is going with the numerous coats of oil and wet sanding to get the very best possible finish.
    Some of the makers only sand to 600 grit and then apply a couple light coats of oil and call that good.
    But...... like the other aspects of making the knife, the more you put into the work you do, the more you get out of it.
    In my opinion Erik is a good example of a perfectionist.
    Part of the reason I was so thrilled when he agreed to make this knife.
    Mark Farley / Burl Source
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  9. #19
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    Getting ready for etching.

    A tube of ferric chloride, Vim for degreasing windex for neutralizing, WD40 for rubbing off the oxides and gunoil for protection of the etch.
    Vice grips for holding the blade in the tube and not dopping it on the bottom or through the bottom.....

    The Vim is the best degreaser I have found, it leaves absolutely no white streaks when you pull the blade out of the etchant to see how it's doing.



    Blades etched and oiled up, tomorrow is assembly day!

    Mark Farley / Burl Source
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  10. #20
    Senior Member Crothcipt's Avatar
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    What are you using for the handle on the smaller kinfe? Love the 50's tv test pattern.

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