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Thread: Drilling nickel silver and copper spacers?

  1. #11
    Das HandleMeister apicius9's Avatar
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    Thanks, Pierre, I guess I will try both, HSS and carbide and see how it goes. And I do use some scrap wood under the metal pieces - being where I am, they are koa I was researching more tonight and realized that with the increasing diameter I should have lowered the speed which I did not do. I also read that the bullet pilot point drills 'should' work (the pilot point just minimizes wandering), but that they won't work well to open existing holes. That sounds like I should not have predrilled at all with them. Makes sense from my experience but still surprising. I will continue experimenting...

    Stefan

  2. #12
    Marko Tsourkan's Avatar
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    You can get some from Enco.


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  3. #13
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    Bill Burke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBroida View Post
    i use coolant sometimes when drilling or polishing delicate things
    Quote Originally Posted by Marko Tsourkan View Post
    You can get some from Enco.
    Enco is a good choice for decent drills at a good price. Also if you can get cobalt drills. They are a good compromise between hss and carbide. Brab points will work in brass or copper but nickel silver, Nickle or stainless is going to ruin them.
    Last edited by Bill Burke; 01-30-2012 at 09:34 AM. Reason: Computer spelling

  4. #14

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    Stefan,

    Just the new guy here with knives but was a machinist for 16 years so maybe I could be a little bit of help. When drilling any type of metal the general rule is to use surface footage(sfm) to determine the drill speed/rpm. This is the calculation (RPM = (SFM x 3.82) divided by DIAMETER of drill). The sfm can vary wildly between a stainless/nickel alloy(20sfm)and say, brass or copper(200sfm). Getting your rpm's close to the material you are drilling is just as important as the type of drill. To find the approx sfm just google , sfm for (material you need to drill).

    As for the drill bit itself, carbide will drill through just about anything but can be brittle and chip if your set-up isn't rigid enough and can get damn expensive. The pilot drills you are using are not made to enlarge an existing hole. I would use a good quality HSS/cobalt drill from an industrial supply house -MSC, J&L or Enco, the drill bits at Home Depot just won't last. When drilling the hole, use a center punch first to locate the drill, then use a center drill to give the drill bit it's start and then the actual drill bit to finish the hole. If you drill thin sheet type material, look into a uni-bit style drill (center punch but no center drill with a uni-bit) they will not "grab" the material as it breaks through.

    Hope this helps,

    Jason

  5. #15
    DevinT's Avatar
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    Slower speed at the drill press.

    Hoss

  6. #16
    Das HandleMeister apicius9's Avatar
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    Just another example of how amazing this forum is. Less than 20h after posting my question, I got more than a dozen really helpful tips here and through PMs, and one of the forum members (Pesky) walked down to his local tool shop, picked up some cobalt drills for me and sent them out. Special thanks and welcome also to the 'new guy' Jason for jumping right in, those were great tips and pointers on how to find more info on this.

    Mahalo,

    Stefan

  7. #17
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    Chef Niloc's Avatar
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    I'm no expert but from my own experiences and advice from others over the years herer are my thoughts on drilling hard and or thick mettle.

    Start with a center tap by hand rather then using self centering bits.

    Low speed with as much downward force as you can use without flexing the bit, so short bits work better.
    Step up in sizes and use grease/thick oil that will want to stay in place and not "run" once it starts getting hot. The heaviest weight motor oil might be the easiest for you to find but I have seen guys at machine shops use this thick, thicker then jelly stuff.
    If you here the but starting to squeak or just change in sound your getting to hot.

    Wd40 sucks

    Sharp bits, I see guys do them after each use on a disk grinder. I could never do that, but I guess if you work in a machine shop you get good at it. I use a drill doctor.

    1/8" bits are disposable, buy cheep ones.

    Champ your work down tight from at lest 3 sides. Use clamps with long jaws or spread the force by using flat steel bars or blocks of wood.

    Hope some of this helps?

  8. #18

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    Stefan,

    Glad I could be of some help. I've learned quite a bit from yinz guys about knives and when I saw a metal working question I was glad to help, it's one of the few things I know something about.

    Jason

  9. #19
    Das HandleMeister apicius9's Avatar
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    Thanks Colin. i have some cutting oil here and Pesky picked up something for me today, so I will see how that goes. Mine is a bit thin for my taste. My setup us a small milling table on my drill press table with a small vise mounted on it, so I can move my pieces in 3 dimensions and it is pretty stable. Still far from a pro setup or a milling machine, but for the level of precision I usually need it has been sufficient so far. I have some 1/4" and some 1/2" cobalt drills on the way, and If I need 1/8" to predrill, I will do exactly what you suggested and get a dozen 1/8" bits. If the USPS is fast enough, I will find out how it goes on Sunday while you all watch this strange game that was created for the advertising industry on TV

    Stefan

  10. #20
    Marko Tsourkan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by apicius9 View Post
    ...I will find out how it goes on Sunday while you all watch this strange game that was created for the advertising industry on TV

    Stefan
    You not going to watch the game? NO!

    I can't tell you how much I am looking forward to that game.

    Besides looking forward to the outcome, I also have a friendly wager - if Giants lose, I am sending some pastrami to Panaca, if they win, I get best ingredients for chili from Panaca.

    M


    "If there’s something worth doing, it’s worth overdoing.” - An US saying.

    If my KKF Inbox is full (or not), please contact me via Email: anvlts@gmail.com

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