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How would you sharpen Cermax and other Powered MC steel knives?
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Thread: How would you sharpen Cermax and other Powered MC steel knives?

  1. #1

    How would you sharpen Cermax and other Powered MC steel knives?

    Usually when I work on soft German steel knives, I may go as low as 500 and then 1000, 3000 and mirror edge with 6000. But, for Cermax, which would be much harder to sharpen, I assume that you should not go below 3000 and then use 6000 and perhaps finish with JNAT or CNAT?

    I have not done it yet but thanks m thinking, which maybe wrong, if you have some advice, I am all ears!

  2. #2
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    I don't do anything different for Cermax. It sharpens pretty easily, actually. I generally start at 1k unless there is damage or I want the edge particularly toothy. The only knives I've every had difficulty sharpening were that Haslinger passaround (S35VN?) and a couple of odd 52100 blades.

    Actually, that's not true. Real cheapies can be a PITA for other reasons.

  3. #3
    Depends on how much work the edge needs. If you need to set a brand new bevel, then you need a coarse stone for that. The only difference is you might have to spend more time on each stone to get a nice even scratch pattern. Why would harder steel mean you need to use finer/"weaker" abrasives?

    That being said, there's nothing wrong with starting at something like a 3000 if you're just bringing a good edge back to life.

  4. #4
    The alleles created by mutation may be beneficial


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    Quote Originally Posted by JasonD View Post
    Why would harder steel mean you need to use finer/"weaker" abrasives?
    +1

    Usually the harder the steel is the lower I start my progression, just to save time. 1k-5k would probably be enough for me.

  5. #5
    Oh, that's fine then, I was just wondering

  6. #6
    Senior Member ThEoRy's Avatar
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    In my experience, 6000 is way to high for traditional German steel. It never retains that level more than one slice. 1200 max is all I ever go to.
    Starting this harvest I'm a starving startling artist/
    Lyrical arsonist it's arduous spitting this smartest arsenic/

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by ThEoRy View Post
    In my experience, 6000 is way to high for traditional German steel. It never retains that level more than one slice. 1200 max is all I ever go to.
    I agree but I do it for mirror effect. I know it doesn't do much but for me, since I am learning, it's kinda fun

  8. #8
    I always sharpen the houses, German knives up to about 8k (using a coticule) and they retain the edge pretty well, the trick is to do around 24 degrees per side or more. The knives are pretty thick so there's no point in going lower.

  9. #9
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    The Cermax isn't "traditional German steel," though; it's clad ZDP-189 at Rockwell 66. I do what tk59 does and start with a Bester 1200, and then finish on a 6000-8000 grit Takenoko. Depending on how thin you make your edge, it does show a propensity toward microchipping, meaning that you might need to go back to a coarser stone in order to remove chips more often than you'd like. Finishing at 6000 leaves an edge that holds up for a reasonably long time and, initially off the stones, is screaming sharp.

  10. #10
    Senior Member ThEoRy's Avatar
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    I was sort of off topic while referring to his other softer German's. My apologies if anyone confused that subject matter with the topic of sharpening a Twin Cermax. To further clarify, I sharpen my Twin Cermax petty to 5k and strop on felt+diamond. My Miyabi 5000s petty and parer only go to 1200 then felt+diamond.
    Starting this harvest I'm a starving startling artist/
    Lyrical arsonist it's arduous spitting this smartest arsenic/

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