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Trials and tribulations with O1
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    Trials and tribulations with O1

    My last few O1 blades have developed a bit of a curve after heat treat. The first time this happened I was able to grind them straight. The one I just did I clamped straight in the temper stage, but there was still a bit of curve so I tried to bend it back and the tang snapped off!
    I have a light weight jig that holds the blade vertical in the oven and heat soak at 1475º f. for 5 minutes, quench in fast quench oil followed by 30 minutes at -100º f., then 2 2 hour tempers at 340º. This routine has been working really well until now.
    The steel is from Starrett through McMaster-Carr.
    Does anyone have any suggestions?
    Spike C
    "The Buddha resides as comfortably in the circuits of a digital computer or the gears of a cycle transmission as he does at the top of a mountain."
    Pirsig

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    Are you doing any pre-HT grinding?

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    Nope. Just doing the profile.
    Spike C
    "The Buddha resides as comfortably in the circuits of a digital computer or the gears of a cycle transmission as he does at the top of a mountain."
    Pirsig

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    Spike, I've generally forged the taper in on my blades but I always heat cycle before heat treatment. Would still do this on ground annealed stock out of suspicion.
    I will heat to critical and straighten. Heat just beyond critical and check for straightness as it cools, re-straighten as necessary. I will do this 3 times minimum or until it stays dead straight on cooling. Then go to the final heat and soak at critical for the quench. I rarely get one that still wants to kink after that. I use a jig on tempering to straighten as a last resort but not on heat treatment. In my experience with distortion clamping while heating and cooling is best avoided. At least until it becomes necessary.

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    Dave Martell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WillC View Post
    ......but I always heat cycle before heat treatment. Would still do this on ground annealed stock out of suspicion.
    I will heat to critical and straighten. Heat just beyond critical and check for straightness as it cools, re-straighten as necessary. I will do this 3 times minimum or until it stays dead straight on cooling. Then go to the final heat and soak at critical for the quench. I rarely get one that still wants to kink after that.

    My heat treat company does this for my O-1 blanks each and every time just to avoid issues after the final HT. They need/use 3 cycles for O-1

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    Thanks guys, and thanks to Marko for his pm which I cannot reply to as his mailbox is full!
    Spike C
    "The Buddha resides as comfortably in the circuits of a digital computer or the gears of a cycle transmission as he does at the top of a mountain."
    Pirsig

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    Mike Davis's Avatar
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    One thing i can suggest is fast oil is not good for O-1. You need a slow oil for it, you might be creating stress fractures in the matrix by creating undue stress in the blade when using fast oil. O-1 quenches about as slow as it gets...Almost air hardening lol. Maybe Del will jump in, he uses primarily O-1.

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    Also, you should be soaking O1 for more like 20 minutes, not 5.

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    I got my procedure from Devin. He uses a lot of O1, and I trust his advice.
    Spike C
    "The Buddha resides as comfortably in the circuits of a digital computer or the gears of a cycle transmission as he does at the top of a mountain."
    Pirsig

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    That piece of advice did not come from me but from Kevin Cashen. I did not intend to imply any kind of personal expertise with O1.
    Quote Originally Posted by SpikeC View Post
    I got my procedure from Devin. He uses a lot of O1, and I trust his advice.

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