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Thread: Project knife ID and advice

  1. #11
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    sachem allison's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benuser View Post
    The grit for opening the pores isn't that important. Someting around P400 if you're using fresh paper. Just a few strokes will do.
    yeah what he said

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by dreamsignals View Post
    Why do think that?
    Because you are not a steel jig, and you have a natural tendency to wobble. A flat line is easy on a grinder with a platen--just shove it up there a few seconds at a time and bammo. But I find fixing broken tips by moving the tip up through sharpening and the spine down by cheating the curve is a lot easier.

  3. #13
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    ++1
    Spike C
    "The Buddha resides as comfortably in the circuits of a digital computer or the gears of a cycle transmission as he does at the top of a mountain."
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  4. #14
    Senior Member dreamsignals's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BurkeCutlery View Post
    Because you are not a steel jig, and you have a natural tendency to wobble. A flat line is easy on a grinder with a platen--just shove it up there a few seconds at a time and bammo. But I find fixing broken tips by moving the tip up through sharpening and the spine down by cheating the curve is a lot easier.
    Got it, thanks. I'll probably get to it this weekend. I can just get the cheap pharmacy mineral oil, right?

    Any chance somebody knows more about the brand, maker, still active, etc?
    -thiago

  5. #15
    Senior Member dreamsignals's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benuser View Post
    The grit for opening the pores isn't that important. Someting around P400 if you're using fresh paper. Just a few strokes will do.
    thanks!

    and what grit for after i've open the pores and soaked in oil? wet-dry?

    and what grit sandpaper should i use for rounding out the spine, etc?
    -thiago

  6. #16
    If you use wet/dry on wood to finish sand, make sure you don't buy the cheap stuff, or re-use the sheets you used for metal. It'll leave black streaks on your wood and ruin the entire finish. The grit you go to is up to you.

    For rounding the spine by hand, I'd go with 120. Stray low-grit scratches are a pain to get out, especially by hand.

  7. #17
    Senior Member dreamsignals's Avatar
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    So, I finally got around to sanding and soaking the handles. I haven't yet sanded them again to get the wood flush with the metal. I guess I'm a little nervous the wood will shrink again so I'm waiting a few days to see how it behaves. Is this warranted or can I should go ahead and finish them. I'm planning on using 600 grit regular sandpaper. Does this sound right?

    Also, on all but one of the knives the little gaps between handle and tang closed (or almost). What can I do the one knife in which they didn't? They're not huge, but since I'm doing this, I might as well go all the way. Can I fill the up with some resin or wax? Would it do anything to try to 'squeeze' towards the tang the scales on a bench clamp?

    Thanks.
    -thiago

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