Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 16

Thread: Do western handless need rivets?

  1. #1

    Do western handless need rivets?

    I can't really see what something like corby rivets add to the stability of a handle. Say you have 5/16 rivets. You just drill 5/16 holes and stick the rivet in. if the wood wanted to break the epoxy bond, wouldn't it just slide up the rivets? I'm lazy and just want a quick rehandle that will seal the tang of my knife (i.e. only care about function). Should I use rivets?

  2. #2
    Not necessary at all if your useing epoxy. The pins add a mechanical fix, Mosaics and straight pins for the most part are not peened, and hav no head as it were. Use a high qualitx adhesive, clean you surfaces well, and clamp up.


    Feel free to visit my website, http://www.rodrigueknives.com
    Email pierre@rodrigueknives.com

  3. #3

    ecchef's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    In the Village.
    Posts
    3,505
    I believe that Corby as well as Loveless style fasteners are used with counterbored holes; that is, the shoulder of the bolt provides a 'clamping' force as it draws the scales tighter. A straight pin will provide more surface area for the epoxy to grip but does not provide as strong of a mechanical bond.
    Though I could not caution all I still might warn a few; Don't raise your hand to raise no flag atop no ship of fools. - Robert Hunter

  4. #4
    They do add strength and stability to your handle.

    Courtesy of www.northcoastknives.com

    Corby


    Loveless

  5. #5
    great graphic. I agree the use of a fastener or rivet adds significant stability and longevity to a handle. Yet is not necessarily needed to make a strong handle. With proper surface prep and good adhesives as already said, A straight pin will provide more surface area for the epoxy to grip but does not provide as strong of a "mechanical" bond.

    Inspired by God, Forged by Fire, Tempered by Water, Grounded by Earth, Guided by the spirit.. Randy Haas

    Availible Knives

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Cardiff, UK
    Posts
    817
    For knives that will see heavy use i'd go for bolts, but for kitchen knives, decent epoxy would be enough IMO. If you have epoxy and pins, the pins help to resist shear stresses so will make it more than strong enough for something that isn't going to get beat on. Would be interesting to do a destruction test of epoxied on scales, i'm guessing that if the prep was good it'd take a bit of persuading with a hammer to get them off.........

  7. #7

    ecchef's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    In the Village.
    Posts
    3,505
    ...or an Okinawan summer. One pair of scales looked like Bill's de-laminated blade!
    Though I could not caution all I still might warn a few; Don't raise your hand to raise no flag atop no ship of fools. - Robert Hunter

  8. #8
    If (or when) I were to make a Western handle, I would use corby bolts on a full tang knife, bolts on a split handle (scales) hidden tang knife, and epoxy on a solid handle hidden tang knife.

    M


    "If there’s something worth doing, it’s worth overdoing.” - An US saying.

    If my KKF Inbox is full (or not), please contact me via Email: anvlts@gmail.com

  9. #9
    Honestly all of the methods are probably a LOT stronger then you would imagine.

    Got any pics of the knife you are wishing to rehandle? ANd any ideas of what you are rehandling with?

  10. #10
    Didn't realize there was a countersunk hole. That makes a lot more sense. Guess I'll have to use them, then.

    Do people use any special bits to drill countersunk holes?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •