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Thread: What size pin stock for Tojiro ITK rehandle?

  1. #11
    Ugh, I hate bolsters of metal! Especially ones that are already on the knife, can't change much w/o serious grinding.

    This is a Tojiro Honesuki (DP maybe??) that I redid with red micarta. I have been using 1/8" pin stock for most handles lately, I finally got a #30 drill bit and love how the pin slides right into the hole w/o having to ream the hole or sand the pin down. I haven't looked up the right pin for 3/16" or 1/4" pins yet, but one of these days I will!



    If I do the 1/8" pin in an oversized hole, I groove the pin to hold epoxy and make sure the hole is completely filled with epoxy (JB Quik Weld). I will drill the handle material so that the pin is right at the back of the hole closest to the blade and at the front of the pin hole closest to the butt of the handle. This way the handle can't slide back and forth much at all, makes it easier to align. I have carbide bits, but my drill press isn't very tight and precise, so I haven't used them yet.

    I agree the bolts are stronger, but I've never had any problems with the pins and epoxy coming off. I tried to redo some of my older knife handles with the quik weld and pins and the handle materials were splitting before the epoxy was letting go. I would take another knife blank with a thin tip, and hammer it into the gap between the handle and tang to split them.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Deckhand's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpikeC View Post
    Why not just reshape the bolster to match the front of the Wa handle?
    I like how you think, and it would look cool. It seems that unless the bolster was very large this wouldn't work. Unless you made a very skinny wa handle. I thought about having Dave modify some of my knives to wa from western.

  3. #13

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    Yeah, that weld would make fitting the scales interesting.
    Quote Originally Posted by Taz575 View Post
    Ugh, I hate bolsters of metal! Especially ones that are already on the knife, can't change much w/o serious grinding.

    This is a Tojiro Honesuki (DP maybe??) that I redid with red micarta. I have been using 1/8" pin stock for most handles lately, I finally got a #30 drill bit and love how the pin slides right into the hole w/o having to ream the hole or sand the pin down. I haven't looked up the right pin for 3/16" or 1/4" pins yet, but one of these days I will!



    If I do the 1/8" pin in an oversized hole, I groove the pin to hold epoxy and make sure the hole is completely filled with epoxy (JB Quik Weld). I will drill the handle material so that the pin is right at the back of the hole closest to the blade and at the front of the pin hole closest to the butt of the handle. This way the handle can't slide back and forth much at all, makes it easier to align. I have carbide bits, but my drill press isn't very tight and precise, so I haven't used them yet.

    I agree the bolts are stronger, but I've never had any problems with the pins and epoxy coming off. I tried to redo some of my older knife handles with the quik weld and pins and the handle materials were splitting before the epoxy was letting go. I would take another knife blank with a thin tip, and hammer it into the gap between the handle and tang to split them.

  4. #14
    The weld wasn't too bad. I busted out the Dremel and ground away a gap for the weld. The original handles had a gap milled already in the handle. On the Kikuichi Carbon Elite I redid, the bolsters were hollow, which was pretty cool!

  5. #15
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    Any pics of how the honesuki came out?

  6. #16
    LOL, no, I didn't take the after pics. I will see if I can get some today maybe. It came out OK; I used my buffing wheel to polish the bolster and blade up a bit just to see how it would work. It did much better than I thought it would, but there are some deeper scratches I need to remove and I over sanded the handle at one point, so it's a bit below the bolster. I rarely use the knife, so the stuff like that doesn't bother me. I mainly wanted to see what the red Micarta looks like when buffed out compared to the Maroon.

  7. #17
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    So, drilled the rivets out and good news was the handle wasn't glued on at all, so once the rivets were out the scales came clean off.
    Pin holes are 4mm with slots at the top and bottom and a hole in the middle. I have 4mm stainless rod already so just need to work out which wood to use. From the pictures which do people think would be best, I'm thinking the Chestnut burl...

    Pics:
    Drilling the rivets:

    Tang:

    Choice of woods:

    Close up-chestnut left, Black Ash right

    Left to Right-Desert Ironwood, Ringed Gidgee, Maple burr
    Last edited by TB_London; 03-15-2012 at 06:22 PM. Reason: mislabelled one of the woods

  8. #18
    My vote would be for the Black Ash. I think it would go well with the serrations.

  9. #19
    Senior Member quantumcloud509's Avatar
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    My vote for the desert iron wood. I think it fits the knife better, and if I had you rehandle my ITK into WA, thats the one Id ask for... *hint, hint*

  10. #20
    I would say Ironwood or Ringed Gidgee. The others looks too nice for a more plain blade. When you get a blade for the other wood handles, you will know. Sometimes the blade/blank speaks to you

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