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What size pin stock for Tojiro ITK rehandle? - Page 5
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Thread: What size pin stock for Tojiro ITK rehandle?

  1. #41
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    Managed to get this finished yesterday



    Took some pics of the process if anyone is interested:


    Traced around the old scales
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    Used the tang on top of the scales to mark the holes for the pins
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    Once the positions were marked finished drilling the holes, and then used one scale to transfer the marks to the other scale
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    Using the rivets to hold the holes in line whilst i drill the other holes
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    Both scales marked up and drilled
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    Flattening the tang side of the scales on a flat surface with some sand paper, i drew a checkerboard similar to flattening a stone
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    Prior to gluing i needed to shape the front of the scales as it's easier without the blade getting in the way. Living in a block of flats i did as much by hand to avoid too much noise
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    Scales roughly shaped
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    I drilled the counterbores for the cutlers rivets and checked everything still lined up
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    Whilst the scales are together i find it easier to finish the fronts of both scales and keep them symmetrical
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    Ready for glue up
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    Glued up, rivets set and ready for shaping
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    Shaping and polishing
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    Finished up

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    A few more to keep me busy when i get the chance....
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    This was the first time i had used cutlers rivets and i much prefer using pinstock, so much less hassle and i'm not sure of the need for mechanical fixings on kitchen knife handles. I also had less room to shape the handle due to the heads of the rivets and the risk of sanding going through them on curves. They were also a hassle setting as i had drilled my countersink holes a little too deep and so i had to improvise to be able to close them up without the scales getting in the way, whilst the glue was curing (i also used quick cure epoxy which added to the stress)....

  2. #42
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    Oh nearly forgot, pics of the gap at the front before i filled them them sawdust glue mix

    This pic shows where the blade finish extends up the tang
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    And this is the resulting gap
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  3. #43

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    Beautiful, thanks for the pics.

  4. #44
    Senior Member Deckhand's Avatar
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    Nice job. I like the three pins matching the blade color. Wish I was as enterprising.

  5. #45
    Senior Member Johnny.B.Good's Avatar
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    Looks good to me TB, well done.

  6. #46
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    Very nice job! Now you know why a rehandle job costs what it does, eh?
    Spike C
    "The Buddha resides as comfortably in the circuits of a digital computer or the gears of a cycle transmission as he does at the top of a mountain."
    Pirsig

  7. #47
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    Cheers for the comments

    Quote Originally Posted by SpikeC View Post
    Very nice job! Now you know why a rehandle job costs what it does, eh?
    Haha, definitely. It was stressful enough with my own $60 knife, doing it with someone else's pride and joy would be a step up. Getting a perfect fit for the pins and all around the tang takes practice which I need more of. Then shaping it so that it is comfortable and symmetrical took a lot of trial and error. Using mostly hand tools meant it took a few hours to do, but mistakes happened slower too, a decent sander would be nice though.

  8. #48

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    Equipment can make a lot of difference, but like you said, mistakes happen slower with hand tools!! I had a friend build me up a little 1x30 with a small wheel attachment. I have a 1/2" and a 1" diameter wheel for it, makes trimming up the handle slabs/tang easy! The sander has a large slack belt portion as well to help shape out handles. I also like using files after I rough shape the handle out to make sure everything is smooth and comfy, then I move to sandpaper and work my way up.

    That handle looks pretty sweet!!! I also prefer pins, 1/8" pins with a #30 drill bit, nice and easy!

  9. #49
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    I've seen a few WIPS where people use rasps and I've nearly bought some a few times, but end up spending the money on knives instead....
    Any suggestions for makes/shapes/sizes?

  10. #50

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    I've been trying out the Japanese Iwasaki Files. They take some getting used to though and tend to really bite into edges and stuff. Some material they chip out, but stabilized woods and laminates they do a nice job on, but they are odd to use and expensive. I would get a Nicholson 10" round bas tard and a 8" half round bas tard cut. I use those 2 a lot in shaping handles. I would also get a half round, maybe a 6" in a smoother cut (second cut maybe?) to clean up the teeth marks before moving to hand sanding.

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