Quantcast
What size pin stock for Tojiro ITK rehandle? - Page 6
+ Reply to Thread
Page 6 of 7 FirstFirst ... 4567 LastLast
Results 51 to 60 of 61

Thread: What size pin stock for Tojiro ITK rehandle?

  1. #51
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Cardiff, UK
    Posts
    801
    Cheers for the recs, interesting you use the Iwasaki files, these were the ones I was looking at, do they still tend to chip out with finer teeth?

  2. #52

    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    470
    Yeah. I don't use the medium one much. The fine and ex fine can still chip out stuff. I would get one of the fine or ex fine and see if you like them. For the epoxy/linen material I have been playing with, they work well and cut quickly, so I mainly use them for that.

  3. #53


    Dave Martell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Airville, PA
    Posts
    9,498
    Nice results and the WIP pics were great too!

  4. #54
    Das HandleMeister apicius9's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Honolulu, HI
    Posts
    3,244
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Martell View Post
    Nice results and the WIP pics were great too!
    Definitely! May I ask a question: Will pins be enough or is is absolutely necessary to use corby or other bolts? I have yet to make my first Western handle, and I just don't want to invest in more specialty drills for what will very likely be a singular project...

    Stefan

  5. #55

    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    470
    I use Pins and JB Quik Weld, no problems with the handle coming off. Kitchen knives don't get the stress like a combat knife would. Pins help so the handle can't be sheared off. Or you could use the screw type fasteners where there is a threaded rod and 2 buttons with a screw head. You would need to counter sink, but you grind off most of the head anyway.

  6. #56
    Senior Member Deckhand's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Costa Mesa California
    Posts
    1,736
    Quote Originally Posted by apicius9 View Post
    Definitely! May I ask a question: Will pins be enough or is is absolutely necessary to use corby or other bolts? I have yet to make my first Western handle, and I just don't want to invest in more specialty drills for what will very likely be a singular project...

    Stefan
    If you feel like doing two at once someone might send you a block of wood,specialty drills, and a tojiro itk.

  7. #57
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Cardiff, UK
    Posts
    801
    With decent epoxy I reckon you could get away without any pins on a kitchen knife. As I understand epoxy is 'weak' to shearing forces, so the pins provide mechanical resistance to this. By 'weak' it's still relative I reckon it would still take a few whacks with a hammer to knock them off.
    Would be an interesting experiment with some scrap

  8. #58
    Das HandleMeister apicius9's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Honolulu, HI
    Posts
    3,244
    Thanks, that sounds encouraging. I have nickel silver and mosaic pins, just didn't want to have to buy counter sink drills, bolts etc. Oh, and as much as I am up for adventure, I wouldn't want to use someone else's wood or knife for experimenting

    Stefan

  9. #59
    Senior Member Deckhand's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Costa Mesa California
    Posts
    1,736
    Quote Originally Posted by apicius9 View Post
    Thanks, that sounds encouraging. I have nickel silver and mosaic pins, just didn't want to have to buy counter sink drills, bolts etc. Oh, and as much as I am up for adventure, I wouldn't want to use someone else's wood or knife for experimenting

    Stefan
    NP later if you feel comfortable doing yours, and feel like doing another. Would be happy to have you do mine for business. Good luck! I am sure it will turn out amazing!

  10. #60


    Dave Martell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Airville, PA
    Posts
    9,498
    I started off using Corbys because I was concerned and didn't want to add in a potential problem but I've switched to just using pins now. I did a test where I glued a set of scales onto a tang with no pins at all and had to literally hammer and chisel them off so I figure that with some pins it's pretty secure. Also, if wood is going to warp and pull away then it'll do it even with the use of Corby bolts - and yes I'm speaking from multiple experiences here - it happens.

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts