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  1. #11
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    Well, balance point, if spine and choil are rounded, F&F as well as impressions in use are always interesting...

    But honestly, all reviews are good in my mind. Every bit of info helps when you are lookig toput the puzzle together

  2. #12
    Senior Member Crothcipt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobinW View Post
    Well, balance point, if spine and choil are rounded, F&F as well as impressions in use are always interesting...

    But honestly, all reviews are good in my mind. Every bit of info helps when you are lookig toput the puzzle together
    I was gonna say balance. How is the handle? It seems little large for the blade. Other that that great review. When I do anykind of writing I forget over half of what I want to say.

  3. #13
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    Nice review, covered most things I'm interested to know. This thread may be the prompt I need to do some reviews of my knives and I may well "borrow" your template if that's ok?
    Cheers,
    Tom

  4. #14
    Senior Member Keith Neal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TB_London View Post
    Nice review, covered most things I'm interested to know. This thread may be the prompt I need to do some reviews of my knives and I may well "borrow" your template if that's ok?
    Cheers,
    Tom
    Sure, though I am hardly the one to emulate. I have added a few things I should have covered:


    F&F
    Photo of blade straightness
    Balance point
    Handle length, shape, feel
    Spine & choil rounded?

    This is a Suncraft paring style petty made in Japan of stainless steel. The blade is perfectly straight with an even, machine grind. The grind is done on a small diameter wheel, producing a dramatically concave hagane. It is fairly thin behind the edge, but thickens quickly. The steel is soft. It sharpens easily and it is quick to raise a burr and to remove it. Five minutes on a King 1200 raised and removed burrs on both sides. A little stropping on the stone and running the edge across soft wood removed the remaining burr and left a decent edge. The King 6000 was quicker, and stropping on newspaper left a good feeling edge.
    In spite of being fairly thin behind the edge, the concave hagane causes the knife to wedge quickly. It starts to cut nicely, then resistance increases significantly, and it feels quite dull.
    I reduced the bevel angle a little, and that along with the soft steel I expect to give poor edge retention.
    Specifications:
    Overall Length: 194mm
    Blade: 94mm
    Handle: 93mm

    Blade height @heel: 22mm

    Spine thickness above heel: 1.2mm
    Spine thickness @midway: 1.2mm
    Spine thickness @tip: .015mm
    Blade thickness 1mm above edge: .015mm
    Weight 22g

    Cost of the knife and saya was fifty cents at a flea market.
    If you reach the age of 60 without becoming a curmudgeon, you haven't been paying attention.

  5. #15
    Senior Member Keith Neal's Avatar
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    I have now removed the concave blade road. This is my first attempt at modifying a grind, and it is not pretty! However, it works. The knife has no tendency to wedge, and is very sharp. I finished with a King 1200, which seemed enough for a fifty cent knife.

    A few things I learned. 1) The Bester 500 cut faster and much smother than the Atoma 140. 2)The starboard side of the knife seemed to have a deeper concave blade road, but it was more likely poor technique. 3)It looks like I let the finger pressure get a bit too far from the edge in a few places, moving the shinogi up too high. 4) I am no threat to the knifemakers among us!



    If you reach the age of 60 without becoming a curmudgeon, you haven't been paying attention.

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