Remember: You're a unique individual...just like everybody else.
Awesome post by the way!
I'm always glad to hear someone agreeing with me.....LOL
Do you advocate steeling the 70/30 edge and if so what sort of steel do you reccommend?
When I do hone my knives that are 70/30 or any other asymmetric bevel, I use a ceramic rod. The most important thing is to adjust your honing angle to that of the edge. I sometimes will view my placement of the edge against the rod by looking at it from the top to begin. Just to make sure my angles are right.
"See... the problem here is that... my little brother, this morning, got his arm caught in the microwave, and uh... my grandmother dropped acid and she freaked out, and hijacked a school bus full of... penguins, so it's kind of a family crisis... so come back later? Great."
-Lane Myer (Definitely not as in Oscar Mayer)
Thanks Dave for this.. had a lot of questions and found this topic to answer a lot of them.. I feel over the past year or so I've complicated sharpening by not fully understanding the basics before moving onto some of the more advanced aspects of sharpening. Think I had a better grasp on sharpening when I was first being taught. This definitely steered me back on to the right track.. Still lots of questions though... Not sure where this thirst for sharpening knowledge has suddenly come from.. Maybe working with people with razors has opened my eyes to what an actual sharp knife is, or maybe it was when someone asked when the last time I sharpened my butter knife was..
I made some HQ image of whats happening and I would ask you guys to opinionate
So what we have here is a knife assymetrically ground be it Misono Swedish, but with a 50/50 same size and angle bevels on both sides.
My understanding is that
1. because of how the blade is ground, when cutting [a carrrot] the right side is trying to push the produce to the right hand side.
2. Because the bevel on left han side is significant it tries to push the whole blade to the right hand side, and wedging occurs.
Ever try to cut a piece of wood with a circular saw between two supports? Don't do it! I can imagine this might be similar. Pressure from both sides of the product pressing into the blade causing the wedge perhaps?
Starting this harvest I'm a starving startling artist/
Lyrical arsonist it's arduous spitting this smartest arsenic/
A member sent me the link to this video and after reviewing it I thought it warrants that I show it here in this thread.
The video demonstrates exactly what I was talking about when I mentioned how you have to be careful who you get your information from on this subject. Here we have a guided sharpening system salesman talking about his take on how to grind asymmetric knives. I find this demo all wrong - just wrong.
Besides the worst belt grinder technique seen on the interweb...
1. The knife being used IS NOT a Japanese asymmetric knife - it's a super market western made 50/50 clunker. You can't possibly demo this topic on a 50/50 ground knife!
2. He's "showing grinding at a constant angle" yet he's free handing which isn't "holding a constant angle" at all.
3. He talks about how grinding more from one side of the knife than the other is how you adjust the asymmetric ratios. This is true of coarse - but only if you're talking about skewing the ratio so bad that the f-ing knife steers, twists, and cleaves your food apart. This is so basic of an understanding to me that I'm stunned to see him make these comments and demo this in public.
So even though I don't believe in promoting this guys BS I'm posting this for everyone to see the exact opposite of what the REAL DEAL on asymmetry is.
once in a while you get shown the light, in the strangest of places if you look at it right