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Thread: Asymmetry – The REAL DEAL

  1. #51
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    This is how i understand it :

    The right is the right side of a knife when you hold it in the hand. I think that Dave talks about picture 3.

    Please corect me if i am wrong

  2. #52
    The alleles created by mutation may be beneficial

    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Hampton Roads, VA
    What I don't understand is why making the asymmetry on the bevel match the asymmetry on the blade face reduces steering. Say you have a 90/10 right hand bias blade face. Why would a 90/10 bevel steer less than a 50/50?

  3. #53
    This is a subject that is very difficult to elucidate without massive amounts of diagrams & illustrations, or just sharpening and re-sharpening and extensively using different knives.

    I am considering tackling this topic. But in the mean time, if you trust me at all, Dave is right.

  4. #54
    I want to understand just about the same thing. Massive lot of diagrams for me, please

  5. #55
    At the risk of appearing very stupid, in what way would using a magic marker along the edge work/not work here?
    "Too much of anything is bad, but too much good whiskey is barely enough." —Mark Twain

  6. #56
    Assuming the knife was not altered from the appropriate bevels given by the maker, it would work just fine. As always.

    If you screwed it up first, the marker trick won't guide you through repairing it.

  7. #57
    Senior Member eto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    I have been dwelling and debating with this with myself for quite some time now. I get the whole thing that if you sharpen , say a knife that comes from a manufacture that is 70/30 , and sharpen to a almost 50/50 edge it will be just fine. The knives Im talking about are western style Gyutou's .

    Im left handed and I have used knives set up for right hand use with little to no ill effect. Just the occasional blade feeling like its cutting towards the food as apposed to away from the food, depending on the product being cut. My question is are these knives ground throughout the entire blade from edge to spine with one side flat and one side sort of half a clam shell. For example HAMAGURI (convex) edge. If this is the case how would effect a knife for a person who is left handed and wants to set his edge's wider on the left side and less on the right side of the blade.

    Especially if the user is a pro cook/chef who can reduce his knives entire profile from sharpening by many inches over say a period of 2 years of use. Will the knife still work once you start getting up into the blade. Hope this makes sense. Diagram below kind of show what im trying to explain.

  8. #58
    Senior Member Seth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Philadelphia, PA
    Specific examples that some may know - just to get a little more clear on this.

    So a KS: This knife is flat on the left side and convex on the right. In this case a large low/medium bevel on the right and low angle debur on the left is the best scenario? This puts the edge in position 2, let's say.

    So a Shig: This knife is concave just below the spine, then flat, then convex on maybe the last 3/8". It appears to be more or less the same geometry on both sides. The best routine for this knife is likely a 50/50 equal?

    Is this consistent with what Dave is explaining?

    Everywhere you go, there you are.

  9. #59
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    I learned all my sharpening one on one wt. Japan trained Sushi Chefs.All freehand on the stones,double & triple blended bevels on Gyuto.Yanagi,deba,usuba,hollow ground single bevels,Cleavers I always use 50/50.Gyuto mostly assem,even turned a few into single bevels.

    When I first saw Dave Martels DVD I learned why what I was doing worked.What he calls thinning behind the edge is the same as the blended bevels I've put on my carbon masamoto's many yrs.

    This is how I learned assym. bevels,wt fingerpads press edge of blade till it bites a little into the stone,check your spine thats your edge contact angle if you want to blend lower the spine just a hair & work it till you get a burr.Flip the blade over & do the same thing.With a assem. blade when you press edge into stone the spine will be higher on cutting side & lower on backside.You do have to worry about degrees of angles just pay attention to the edge contact on stone & always keep a steady spine while sharpening.

    Sound too simple?Well alot of it is some simple tricks as Dave said there is alot of diff. info. on sharpening,I have found Japan styles to be the best it's never failed me all these yrs.Since I first learned it 30 yrs ago Ive never had to use a dull knife,of coarse I only use carbons.Much of it is good tips & practice.The feel for the flow of steel on stone.

  10. #60
    Thanks Dave, Eamon and everyone else who had contributed to this thread. I have read, & re-read it, made notes and drawings and today put it into practice and was amazed, I've never got results like this before, I have an edge pro collecting dust but was reluctant to sell it off because I could not get consistent results free handing. I thinks it's time to move it on and make room for some new stones
    In order to make delicious food, you must eat delicious food. Jiro Ono

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