Sanding belt question

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DarrenSwerid

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Got one quick question for you guys. I need to order custom grinding belts and was thinking of ordering Ceramic belts in grits 50 and 120 and then go to Aluminum oxide belts grits 220 and 320. Are these steps too large? Should I get another step in between.

I need 2 inch by 32 inch belts and that's why I need to custom order. I need to start saving for a 2x72 machine and make ordering belts less of a headache. Thanks in advance for your time and Happy Easter long weekend to all! :D
 
I've been playing with a variety of belts. I find the ceramic last longer than the AO on both handle material and steel. I usually go 50 or 60, 80, 120 in ceramics and 220, 320, 400, 600 grit belts in AO, and the very fine ScotchBrite belts as well. I will also get AO in the 50, 120 grits from a local hardware store for my 1x30's to use in sharpening or handle roughing out. When they get duller, they get set aside for sharpening. That way the good ceramic belts don't get bunged up on tough handle materials, or dyed bone handles that may stain other stuff.
 
You grinding heat treated steel? Annealed Steel? Wood?

To start I will be grinding HT steels and various handle materials. I have some woods to use up as well as mammoth tooth scales. I have ordered some plastic scales I am putting together with a folder kit for presents for the guys and girls that are being a part of my wedding in September.
 
I use ceramic 3M's to rough grind in a 50 grit, then i use 120 then 320 j flex and A100, A45, A30 gators then to hand sanding. Sometimes i will use a 3M 80 grit to get the 50 grit scratches out before bouncing to the jflex.
 
definitely use a structured abrasive for the alox belts. they heat up so fast it's ridiculous.

You can skip some steps on wood, but I'd say you are on the right track for blade steel.
 
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