Nice Sab !
Nice Sab !
Whatever happened to these customized Sabs? Were the other blanks ever finished?
Really cool project!
I never saw this post Von-blewitt just pointed it out to me. 1st awesome WIP Hoss and beautiful finished project! I'm thinking about trying this myself, so this thread will be come my step by step instruction manual (:
A few quick questions Hoss (if you see this)
1) how can you tell the blanks were stamped and not foraged to shape? I'm not questioning that you do know ( that would be dumb of me) I'm just wondering what shows you how do you tell the difference?
2) as for the heat treat: first if you were to do it again would you do anything different or use A different method? 2nd did you mention how hard you tempered the steel? if so I missed it, how hard did you make it?
3) you sad the tang needed a lot of work, Could you explain this better?
4)have there been any "updates" from the user of this knife about how it's preformed?
Side question I know a lot of you guys will be able to answer, how do you mark the centerline along the blank? You know the guideline you use to make sure that your evenly grinding both sides? I've seen it done but don't know what tool people use to do it.
Niloc,Originally Posted by Chef Niloc
You can purchase centerline scribes from several knife maker supply websites or you can use the low tech approach and if you are using 1/8" stock, use an 1/8" drill bit to get a centerline. Also, if you plan on heat treating after grinding in bevels (not the edge) you should leave some material (dime's thickness) to the edge so that you don't warp it during the heat treat process. From what I have gathered, many of the great kitchen knife makers heat treat prior to grinding so they don't have to worry about edge warp, but again you run into different concerns.
Twitter: @PeterDaEater
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These blanks are drop forged and then trimmed. They need to be annealed, rough ground and heat treated. Then the final grind, finish and handles put on. Austenitize at 1500f and temper at 375f for 1 hour two times. These will benefit from a sub zero quench, right after the oil quench, but I did have some trouble with warping. Hardness should be ~61hrc. The steel seems to be 1075 or similar.
The tangs are not straight and do not have a uniform taper. The blade also has a forged distal taper which makes a little more difficult to mark the center line. To mark the center line, I use a carbide tipped caliper.
Good luck, these are a lot of work and a lot of fun.
Hoss
These blanks are probably not 100 years old. The guy selling these is a bit of a talker/salesman.
Hoss
Just out of curiosity, what happens if you grind and sharpen a knife that is dropped forged like these were? What if you had not heat treated them yourself and just finished them? Thanks
-Anthony
From what I understand they're basically at a level where there's one normalize cycle put on it. So very soft. Wouldn't take an edge as you've basically got an un heat treaded knife shaped piece of iron Carbide
I may or may not have bought one like this and finished it assuming it was good to go
I have a particularly hefty blank that to me looks like it requires more forging. I think I can use a cross-pein hammer to draw out the blade of this to make it match the 11" Veritable I recently bought on eBay. Frankly the resemblance is uncanny, especially since I have not seen that kind of bolster on any other french brands.
Any advice on where to start? Am i right about the forging or is the knife really supposed to be this shape and this width? Do I need to anneal before I begin handforging? Or should I do all the forging first, then anneal, grind, heat treat, etc.?
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