Help with newbie sharpening

First off, here's what I've got to work with. Edgepro with 200 & 300 grit stone, ceramic hone that came with Edgepro, Norton 4000 & 8000 combo stone.

I was able to pinch some pennies and I ordered a Fujiwara FKM Stainless 150mm petty. So far my experience has been mixed. I like the feel and weight of it, but the edge was not great when I got it. Also, it seems a little thick. For example, peeling an apple can be hassle because it seems to wedge itself. That's my amatuer review.

That being said, I'm ready to sharpen it and see what kind of edge it will take, but I'm scared of messing up the geometry. I've watched every video that I could find recommended throughout the board. I'm going to try tonight, but I was hoping for any wisdom that could be imparted. Should I expect the two sides to have different angles?

get your black sharpie out, paint just the very edge onboth sides with the sharpie. I'd start with the EP 200 stone, set the angle to ABOVE where the sharpie has painted the edge first (we're gonna start by thinning a bit behind the edge). With a 150mm petty a single stroke should be able to cover from heel to tip, so make 10 passes, flip and do the same on the second side. We're just thinning here. Now re-set the angle to start removing sharpie paint. Try 5 pases with the 300 stone and see if you've raised a burr. You should see that you are removing sharpie. Keep going, 5 passes at a time until you get a burr from heel to tip. Flip the knife over,and do the same on the second side. Once you've raised the burr on the second side I'd flip the knife again, make two passes. Flip the knife and another two passes. Now were just pushing the burr back and forth like a paper clip. I'd do this 3 or 4 times, then drag the edge of the knife thru a cork, or handle of a soft wood spoon, or kitchen towel. Hoepfully with this the burr has been removed. Now, because of the stones you have avalable you have to move to the norton 4k. I'd sharpie the edges again, and since you're new, I'd suggest a trailing edge stropping stroke - lets say 10 passes on one side of the knife checking often to make sure you are removing sharpie black. Flip and do the same on the second side. Now I'd do five storkes on each side,then remove the burr again, and finish with maybe a single pass, then flip, and repeat say five times. now you're done. (I wouldn't bother now with the 8k)
Best advice thru all this is to go slow,and pay attention to whats really going on.

good luck!

I would probably set the bevel on the 200 or 300, as mikemac suggested and then go the the 4k Norton and focus on doing edge trailing strokes, deburr and see what happens. Do use the sharpie.

Great advice above. Cut into a cork or eraser or something to remove the burr between stones.

Don't think too much about angle numbers--just hit the shoulder to thin it, then hit the edge to sharpen it. Adjust accordingly.

1. For a somewhat different approach: www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php/5656-Asymmetry-–-The-REAL-DEAL

2. For thinning I would suggest to keep the back side as flat as possible, and therefore only remove material from the front side, leaving the back side untouched.

And, even more specific:
www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php/4505-EdgePro-Use-It-Correctly

It worked! It ain't perfect and I'm sure it could be better, but it shaved my arm hair! Even with pretty severely lapped Edgepro stones and a rank amateur, the tips you guys gave me worked.

I followed the steps layed out by mikemac pretty much to the letter, though I did try to use the 8000 side of the Norton and was unable to raise a burr. But anyway, I tested it on an apple, and while it still feels a little thick for comfortable peeling, it is much improved. I'm going to break down several chickens on Monday so that will be a further test.

Few things are better

congrats, and welcome to "the club"
The 8k/burr thing is one reason I left the 8k out. Especially switching from an EP to freehand, and being a "newbie", we're more likly to mess up our work on the higher grit stones.

I don't think it's a great idea to put a symmetric edge on an asymmetric knife. For future sharpening sharpen only the right side and deburr the left one. Thin the right side only, or you will experience serious wedging issues.

Benuser,
I believe it ended up asymetric. One side was around 15 degrees and the other 18. The 15 also had a much wider bevel than the 18.


I worked on my Miyabi this afternoon and while I'm no expert, I'm almost sure that it was not asymmetrically ground. Both sides were extremely low angles (seemed like 12 degrees or less) but they were symmetrical. Anyway, got it sharp! I even was able to raise a burr with the 8000 grit stone. By far the sharpest knife I've ever produced or worked with.

Sounds like you're starting to get the hang of things. Glad it's working out for you. :doublethumbsup:

+1!
Thank you, Adletson!