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Thread: Damascus Knives & Re-Etchng

  1. #11
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    sachem allison's Avatar
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    i like it!
    I haven't lived the life I wanted, just the lives I needed too at the time.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Crothcipt's Avatar
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    looks good. Nice go at it.

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  4. #14
    Senior Member Justin0505's Avatar
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    Thanks for the post Dave! As always, very well organized and thought out and very helpful! I had a Kitaji shig refinished to repair some pin-hole pitting in the cladding that happened during a very humid 2 weeks last summer. I know that it's not traditional, but I then had the blade etched with the muric acid/ PCB acid like in this post. WOW! really great results, the blade looked super cool, and more importantly the etched surface seemed to drastically reduce the famous shig reactivity and and slllooowww things down enough for a really solid and even patina to form over the etching without pitting or over oxidizing.

    Anyway, just thought that it would be worth mentioning that, on really reactive blades, an etched finish might be a good alternative or edition to a forced patina.

  5. #15
    Senior Member Crothcipt's Avatar
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    When you are adding a acid to anything else (lets say water), you pour the acid in to the water. Other wise you will have a reaction of all the acid wanting to react to the first drop causing a explosion. It's been over 20 years since I took a chem. class, so I'm sure someone could explain it better.

  6. #16
    Great post, Dave! I wonder if this would work on Shigefusas kitaeji as the cladding is.............. different than the usual stainless claddings. I dont wonna mess up the cladding.

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Justin0505 View Post
    Thanks for the post Dave! As always, very well organized and thought out and very helpful! I had a Kitaji shig refinished to repair some pin-hole pitting in the cladding that happened during a very humid 2 weeks last summer. I know that it's not traditional, but I then had the blade etched with the muric acid/ PCB acid like in this post. WOW! really great results, the blade looked super cool, and more importantly the etched surface seemed to drastically reduce the famous shig reactivity and and slllooowww things down enough for a really solid and even patina to form over the etching without pitting or over oxidizing.

    Anyway, just thought that it would be worth mentioning that, on really reactive blades, an etched finish might be a good alternative or edition to a forced patina.
    Got any pics?
    "God sends meat and the devil sends cooks." - Thomas Deloney

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by andoniminev View Post
    Great post, Dave! I wonder if this would work on Shigefusas kitaeji as the cladding is.............. different than the usual stainless claddings. I dont wonna mess up the cladding.
    If I'm not mistaken, the Kitaeji finish is produced by polishing, not etching.

    Rick

  9. #19
    Senior Member Justin0505's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pensacola Tiger View Post
    If I'm not mistaken, the Kitaeji finish is produced by polishing, not etching.

    Rick
    That's how they come from Shigefusa... its a really impressive polish job and not one I've been able to replicate. I can mirror polish, but getting a natural stone finish that both shows the contrast in the blade and is perfectly smooth and even is... "tricky" to say the least.

    I posted this in a different thread before, but here's the link to my shige with finish from polishing, etching, and then patina:
    Name:  IMG_0107.jpg
Views: 386
Size:  8.2 KB
    gallery: https://picasaweb.google.com/1176006...83/MarkoShige#

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justin0505 View Post
    That's how they come from Shigefusa... its a really impressive polish job and not one I've been able to replicate. I can mirror polish, but getting a natural stone finish that both shows the contrast in the blade and is perfectly smooth and even is... "tricky" to say the least.

    I posted this in a different thread before, but here's the link to my shige with finish from polishing, etching, and then patina:
    Name:  IMG_0107.jpg
Views: 386
Size:  8.2 KB
    gallery: https://picasaweb.google.com/1176006...83/MarkoShige#
    I believe the type of natural polishing stone is the determining factor. Not too long ago Dr Naka was kind enough to provide a set of three fingerstones to some of us. One, and only one, of the stones was capable of replicating the kitaeji finish, or at least that's what I found.

    Rick

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