i like it!
i like it!
I haven't lived the life I wanted, just the lives I needed too at the time.
looks good. Nice go at it.
Thanks for the post Dave! As always, very well organized and thought out and very helpful! I had a Kitaji shig refinished to repair some pin-hole pitting in the cladding that happened during a very humid 2 weeks last summer. I know that it's not traditional, but I then had the blade etched with the muric acid/ PCB acid like in this post. WOW! really great results, the blade looked super cool, and more importantly the etched surface seemed to drastically reduce the famous shig reactivity and and slllooowww things down enough for a really solid and even patina to form over the etching without pitting or over oxidizing.
Anyway, just thought that it would be worth mentioning that, on really reactive blades, an etched finish might be a good alternative or edition to a forced patina.
When you are adding a acid to anything else (lets say water), you pour the acid in to the water. Other wise you will have a reaction of all the acid wanting to react to the first drop causing a explosion. It's been over 20 years since I took a chem. class, so I'm sure someone could explain it better.
Great post, Dave! I wonder if this would work on Shigefusas kitaeji as the cladding is.............. different than the usual stainless claddings. I dont wonna mess up the cladding.
I posted this in a different thread before, but here's the link to my shige with finish from polishing, etching, and then patina: