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Thread: newbie rehandle question

  1. #11
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    The epoxy makers recommend not too much pressure when assembling. It is not the same as with wood type glues.
    Spike C
    "The Buddha resides as comfortably in the circuits of a digital computer or the gears of a cycle transmission as he does at the top of a mountain."
    Pirsig

  2. #12
    Thanks Spike! I would've clamped the crap out of it just like using wood glue. As to using epoxy, I would imagine that you use it for the tang and wood glue to piece together the different pieces of wood. For ferrule material or inserts made of other materials (such as bone or horn) do you also use epoxy or wood?

  3. #13
    There is an easier way, at least for me! Square off your rear handle and ferrule material. I drill around 1.5-2" deep into the rear handle piece with a 1/2" spade drill bit. The ferrule get drilled through it a 1/8" (or 3/16", depending on how large the tang is on the knife). I use that hole to center the 1/2" spade bit and drill around 2/3 or so of the way through the ferrule. Any spacers get drilled 1/2" hole through them to slide over the tubing. The tang of the knife gets ground down to fit tightly into the aluminum tubing (if it doesn't already fit) and I fit the ferrule to the tang with files and a Dremel with a carbide burr. If you don't want to grind the tang, you can file grooves in the tubing until it fits; the end won't need much filing, but the area near the blade will be fatter and will need more removal of the aluminum tubing. The tubing is more to strengthen the bond between the various handle pieces so they don't shear apart. Once the pieces of the handle fit together and the knife can fit into the handle, I remove the knife from the handle, and epoxy everything together, usually using JB Weld and a 6" one handed bar clamp. Make sure all of the pieces (tubing, holes, spacer ends, etc) get coated with the epoxy. Once it's cured up, I shape out the handle (I do ovals instead of the octagon style). Once the handle is done and finished, I get epoxy down into the handle hole, coat the tang with the epoxy and insert, then clean up the excess and let cure.

    I find that it's easier to drill a larger hole for the tubing than it is to drill a few smaller holes and then file them into a slot and helps strengthen the handle.

  4. #14
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    Will has some pics of he way I do it here, sounds similar to Taz, but using dowel with a slot instead of tube to locate the tang

    http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/sh...l=1#post109387

  5. #15
    I saw some of the guys using dowels, I figured it would be easier to grind the tang thinner to fit into the aluminum tubing. The slotted dowel is a good idea, too and may be a bit easier! It's easier than turning the tenon down on the handle and fitting the ferrule over it!

  6. #16

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    Spike, Ever since I increased the clampimg force I havent had not one come apart or had an ugly glue lines. I really cant say I am clamping the crap out of it. I just raised it considerably



    Quote Originally Posted by SpikeC View Post
    The epoxy makers recommend not too much pressure when assembling. It is not the same as with wood type glues.

  7. #17
    This is the best method I have seen so far, courtesy of TB_London and WillC and should work very well for a handle with metal spacers. One needs to pay close attention to alignment - when clamped, there is likely to be some shifting.

    http://i798.photobucket.com/albums/y...e/IMGP2585.jpg

    http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/sh...tal-land/page9

    M


    "If there’s something worth doing, it’s worth overdoing.” - An US saying.

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  8. #18

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    Let's not forget Marko's way of doing stuff! His methods are quite awesome.
    http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/sh...ruction-Handle

  9. #19
    As to the shifting after clamping, is that almost inevitable? Seems as though the way you folks do it, as long as it doesn't shift too much, that it should still work out when you do the final shaping?

    I cannot believe how helpful everyone is here. I thought a wa handle would be a simple, few step process and obviously I am so off base. With all the help, I do think I can find a compromise of some of the methods listed, though Taz's explanation helps clear up a few of the issues that I could see running into...the only thing I know for sure is that it won't go down on my best knives until I have done one or two...oh yeah and my best knives aren't even close to what you folks consider 'nice knives' though with a little more time around here, I can see replacing everything with custom made jobs.

  10. #20
    Yeah, the aluminum tubing works pretty well! I got the idea from the slotted wooden dowels. I have a few belt sanders, so I just trimmed the tang down to fit into the tubing instead of slotting a dowel. I really like the looks of Marko's handles, but don't have that degree of skill to do that!

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