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Thread: My sharpening tool

  1. #1

    My sharpening tool


    I just finished this knife sharpening tool. On the left is a pivot point. Basically a piece of threaded bar with a nut for height altering, on a hinge. Then to the right, comes a linear bearing, then the mechanism for setting the right angle, and then another pivot point for flipping the knife over, and then the jaws. It works really well and is easy to operate, and the sharpening angle will keep the same all the way.

    I have 220 - 400 - 1000 - 3000 and 10,000 japanese water stones, and not a proper stropping leather / paste...

    Can you give me advise on sharpening? I use a 10 degree angle, and on the last moves, per stone, the movement is into the stone, so the bur goes away. At the end I stropped at a simple piece of leather at a slightly steeper angle.

    My results were quite ok, shaving and cutting paper were easy, and was better then the free hand sharpening I did before. But I can't put my knife on a tomato and cut it by the weight of the knife. The smallest width on the primairie bevel is 0.4mm, damascus chef's knife, 60 HRc, 1.2842 and 1.2767 toolsteel.


    Johan van Zanten

  2. #2

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Top of Georgia
    A+ Engineering!


  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Would love to see a video of it working if you have one...

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    San Diego, CA
    It does look like a nice piece of work. I suspect it has the same inherent flaws as all other devices consisting of an arm rotating about a single fixed axis.

    At 10 deg per side, and 10k finish, you should be able to pass the tomato test. Perhaps you can lighten the pressure at the end.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Justin0505's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Minneapolis, MN
    + 1 on the video request. Something like this needs to be seen in motion.

    As for sharpening for the tomato test: try very light pressure at the end and edge traing strokes only.

    Same thing when you're stropping: light pressure with more passes and also try and angle LOWER than the stone angle. If had the stone at 10deg, try something in the 6 to 9deg range. If you are going for crazy sharp, not durability, the idea is to round off / micro convex the edge as little as possible. The strop is going to give and flex and wrap around the edge, so you want an angle and pressure where it's just barely "kissing" the edge.

  6. #6
    @tk59, you could look at this like a vector with it's tail fixed, and besides that all the freedom of movement. What flaws do you mean? What is irritating me so far is the weight of the arm, I think i'm going to install a spring under the arm.

    @ Justin, what are edge traing strokes? Strokes pointing the edge into the stone?

    I will make a video about the tool, and another video about how I sharpen right now, after the weekend.

    Thanks so far.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Crothcipt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    wyoming, closer to nowhere than somewhere.
    Edge tailing, means that the edge is not going first into the stone as its being dragged. Instead you hold it at the angle you want and sweep backwards, usually with light pressure.

  8. #8
    ah ok. I'll try it with lighter pressure.

    Here's the video:

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Rockport, TX
    This may be the first jig I've seen that JUST holds a consistent angle and doesn't restrict otherwise. It's basically a human arm with a locked wrist.

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Bangor Maine

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