German knive + Japanese waterstones = ok?

I thought I read somewhere it was bad for European knives to use synthetic whetstones and best to use Arkansas oil stones. Please advise.

I've found I enjoy sharpening Euros on Arks more than synthetics, and I enjoy sharpening J-knives on synthetic stones more than Arks, but I don't know the exact science. I think it's because Arks cut relatively slow, and on high hardness j-knives that can mean a lot of work for little reward. Conversely, synthetic waterstones cut comparatively fast, and on softer Euro knives that can mean you chew up metal quick if you don't pay attention. I think.

All things considered though, if your technique is solid you can sharpen on anything abrasive and kinda flat.

It's nonsense. Abrasion is abrasion, and has nothing to do with the maker's nationality. Some German knives have very fine carbon blades, e.g. Robert Herder's. Most people will think of relatively soft stainless steel though, however. There, sharpening can be performed very well with waterstones, but there's no need to follow a full progression. If I sharpen soft stainless, German or not, I generally won't go beyond a J800 grit, followed by leather + Cr2O3. Exceptionally I would strop and deburr on J2000 in between.

Vertigo said:

I've found I enjoy sharpening Euros on Arks more than synthetics, and I enjoy sharpening J-knives on synthetic stones more than Arks, but I don't know the exact science. I think it's because Arks cut relatively slow, and on high hardness j-knives that can mean a lot of work for little reward. Conversely, synthetic waterstones cut comparatively fast, and on softer Euro knives that can mean you chew up metal quick if you don't pay attention. I think.

All things considered though, if your technique is solid you can sharpen on anything abrasive and kinda flat.

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Even soft steel may have a great abrasion resistance, and very hard - carbon - steel may sharpen most easily...

Assuming you mean the soft stuff on Henckels, Chicago Cutlery, Mercer, Wusthof, etc, etc...

I had not found anything I liked the edge better off of than a SiC belt followed by leather belt. It's kinda how the knives are designed to be worked and sharpened.

Until recently. I like to sharpen without power and batteries and mess and disposable belts. So I do these on an Atoma 140x and a Naniwa Aotoshi with a 1200 grit rod for pulling the burr off in between, and cut into hard felt. It is a great setup, but it's also literally 10x the price of most of the knives I use it on.

I do not have the patience for using Arkies or coticule stones.

India stones work beautifully for German knives, but, so does a 1k king.

i do everything on water stones.

French carbon knives seem to do very well on Japanese synthetics...

I sold my Halls Arkansas stones a few years ago and never looked back.

Dave

EdipisReks said:

i do everything on water stones.

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+1

-AJ

No problemos.

King 800 and a steel, works great.

Thanks all for making my life a bit easier.