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Thread: Hot Vinegar Patina

  1. #11
    So here's one I did this morning with a Tojiro ITK petty that I had removed the kuro-uchi finish and polished to about 2000. This was 3 trips through the bath, rinsing and cleaning after each with some 0000 steel wool.

    I saw another video that added a few drops of dishwashing liquid to reduce surface tension, may try that on the next one, but not sure how it will do with boiling vinegar........


  2. #12
    Senior Member Justin0505's Avatar
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    Looks cool! That ITK petty is a great little knife. Did the etch smooth out the rough, sand-blasted area above the edge or make it deeper?

    It will be interesting to see how this finish holds up in use and what it does to reactivity.

  3. #13
    That is really cool! Why did the table of the blade near the spine etch to match the blade road? Was it finished differently?

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Justin0505 View Post
    Looks cool! That ITK petty is a great little knife. Did the etch smooth out the rough, sand-blasted area above the edge or make it deeper?

    It will be interesting to see how this finish holds up in use and what it does to reactivity.
    I didn't polish all of that out, and you can see it if you look close. The etch didn't do anything to it except maybe even out the color.

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by BurkeCutlery View Post
    That is really cool! Why did the table of the blade near the spine etch to match the blade road? Was it finished differently?
    Eamon,

    Nothing different about the areas, all done the same. It really looked weird before I buffed off the black, quite the contrasting colors........ You'll have to tell me why it did that, I don't know. Is that where it's folded over itself? Maybe the HT makes that thicker area different?

  6. #16
    I have another Tojiro ITK 150 petty that I'm going to polish up and etch, maybe try something different with this one. If it goes well, the next will be the 210 gyuto, with a rehandle.

  7. #17
    And I should have clarified that the 2000 polish mentioned earlier is P2000, not JIS2000.

    R

  8. #18
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    is 'etching' a functional patina? as in does it work to reduce reactivity? i ask because i am seeking the best way to patina for maximum blade protection. i dont care how it looks.

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by panda View Post
    is 'etching' a functional patina? as in does it work to reduce reactivity? i ask because i am seeking the best way to patina for maximum blade protection. i dont care how it looks.
    I acid etched my Konusuke Fujiyama yanagiba and the white #1 doesnt react at all now. The blade is definitely duller with a blue hue to it, but I can cut through citrus or any of the lilies and it never reacts. I noticed it doesnt really rust anymore either. I had a really busy night on the line and left a it of water on it without realizing. As soon as I realized what I did, I dreaded the rust that I knew was going to be there. But there was no rust, I just wiped it down, dried it off and it looked the same as before.

  10. #20
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    that's exactly what i want, how do i go about doing that?

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