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Please explain advanced deburring - detection of subtle burrs and how to get rid of them - Page 2
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Thread: Please explain advanced deburring - detection of subtle burrs and how to get rid of them

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by heirkb View Post
    Is the removal of a wire edge only possible with a microbevel then?
    Yes, it is. But you have to increase the angle enough to break the wire edge off. In some cases you can even see this thin strip of metal breaking off the edge.

  2. #12
    Senior Member heirkb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iceman01 View Post
    Yes, it is. But you have to increase the angle enough to break the wire edge off. In some cases you can even see this thin strip of metal breaking off the edge.
    Then the microbevel is the only way? I can see how my question may have seemed like I was asking if it was possible at all, but I was asking if it's the only way possible. I might be misreading your post, though.

  3. #13
    Dave Martell's Avatar
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    The most effective, yet time consuming, way to rid an edge of the wire is to abrade it away through polishing. You have to remove all loose burrs at each grit level first though. So you draw the loose burrs away and off of the edge by running the edge through something self-healing like rubber or felt and then the wire edge can be abraded away by the next higher grit stone and so on. Sometimes it helps to strop between each stone as well. Keep in mind though that after you strop the edge will likely cut paper well as you've aligned the wire straight but it will fail quick upon board work.

  4. #14

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    +1 on what Dave said. That is essentially the concepts used in straight razor sharpening, where you want the finest edge possible and the least amount of edge abuse in the process.

    Micro bevels are a good idea, though, especially for kitchen knives--once we are safely in the arena of sharp knives, kitchen knives need durability first and foremost.

  5. #15
    Senior Member heirkb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Martell View Post
    The most effective, yet time consuming, way to rid an edge of the wire is to abrade it away through polishing. You have to remove all loose burrs at each grit level first though. So you draw the loose burrs away and off of the edge by running the edge through something self-healing like rubber or felt and then the wire edge can be abraded away by the next higher grit stone and so on. Sometimes it helps to strop between each stone as well. Keep in mind though that after you strop the edge will likely cut paper well as you've aligned the wire straight but it will fail quick upon board work.
    Thanks for the help. So if I understand this correctly, the next stone up will remove the wire edge of the stone before and then create one of it's own, right? So what do you do after that last stone/strop in order to remove that final tiny wire edge?

  6. #16
    Dave Martell's Avatar
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    Nope, the next stone up begins to make the wire edge smaller (not create another one).

    The idea is to make it the wire so small that it will not fold under use or so small that we can't tell when it folds as the performance remains high.

  7. #17

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    thanks

    Thank you all for the informative responses.

    I once read on knifeforums.com someone suggest a method where after sharpening on all stones (e.g. 12 degrees on each side), a microbevel (e.g. 18 degrees) is created on one side only with edge-trailing strokes, and then the knife is flipped and an edge-LEADING stroke performed at the same angle as previously sharpened (12 degrees) in order to crush/destroy the burr.

    Thoughts on the validity/efficacy of this method?

  8. #18
    Senior Member heirkb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Martell View Post
    Nope, the next stone up begins to make the wire edge smaller (not create another one).

    The idea is to make it the wire so small that it will not fold under use or so small that we can't tell when it folds as the performance remains high.
    Thanks again Dave. I think I'm getting it more now.

    So in the case of knives that we don't take to a super polish (say we stop at 2-3k or 5k, which is what I was gonna do since I'm a newbie), will there be an issue with the wire edge being too large? I can't tell if that's the case, yet, because I've only been sharpening crappier knives to learn the basics of the technique.

  9. #19
    Dave Martell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by heirkb View Post
    Thanks again Dave. I think I'm getting it more now.

    So in the case of knives that we don't take to a super polish (say we stop at 2-3k or 5k, which is what I was gonna do since I'm a newbie), will there be an issue with the wire edge being too large? I can't tell if that's the case, yet, because I've only been sharpening crappier knives to learn the basics of the technique.

    Yeah it might be a problem but the best thing you can do is to try the edge and see how it works.

  10. #20
    Dave Martell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flounce View Post
    Thank you all for the informative responses.

    I once read on knifeforums.com someone suggest a method where after sharpening on all stones (e.g. 12 degrees on each side), a microbevel (e.g. 18 degrees) is created on one side only with edge-trailing strokes, and then the knife is flipped and an edge-LEADING stroke performed at the same angle as previously sharpened (12 degrees) in order to crush/destroy the burr.

    Thoughts on the validity/efficacy of this method?

    I'm sure this can help with burrs but I know it won't do anything for the wire edge except straighten it out.

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