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Thread: tips on polishing

  1. #1

    tips on polishing

    Hi guys

    This is my Kiya 180mm santoku, Swedish carbon, pretty good feel and a decent performer. It's currently my go-to, especially as it's smaller than a gyuto and I've got a Korean kitchen with counter space about the size of a stove-top. I also don't worry much about what happens to this knife and have played with patinas, got it rusty, rubbed it all away, and so on again. It's kind of my knife to mess around with.

    Anyway, I want to polish it. I can remove the patina pretty well with [I]Metal Glo[I] but you can still see some deeper indications of a one-time forced patina, former rust spots, as well as fine stratches in different directions from various abbrasive experiments. You can see a bit in the photos below.

    I'd like to polish it up to look really shiny, not necessarily to a mirror, but enough to make it look new again, and maybe round off the spine a bit while I'm at it. For those who do this, I'm wondering what powders/compounds/finger stones/sand papers/micro meshes you've tried or'd recommend? I'm asking 'cause I'm organising a package from the US now and can buy this stuff. Have looked around, but haven't seen a definitive thread on this. (Maybe because patinas are popular )

    Thanks for any suggestions!

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  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Lexington, KY
    I just use wet/dry sandpaper for this purpose. You will need to start at a grit low enough to remove the current scratches/grind marks then progress up to the desired finish level; use cork or rubber block to back the sandpaper so that it can conform to the geometry of the blade. I buy 3M wet/dry sandpaper, available from automotive stores.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    I like the profile of your santoku, that tip looks kind of useful. I've had some success with micro mesh pads, but it requires a lot of patience.

  4. #4
    Yes, thanks. It's a useful tip which is why I tend to grab it ahead of my nakiri, but if more space then I'll go for the gyuto. They told me this is their #1 seller in Japan, incidentally, so the kind of all-rounder home cooks there like.

  5. #5
    Wet/dry paper for removing the factory scratches, then Micro Mesh MX for polishing.

  6. #6
    Thanks so far, guys. Doing a quick search I see the micro mesh goes up to 1200 grit. Which grits do you recommend for the wet/dry and micro mesh?

    If I use sharpening stones as a guide, I'd imagine higher grits than 1000 or 1200 would be needed to really finish well, no?

  7. #7
    Senior Member Mr.Magnus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Stockholm, Sweden
    not rly unless your looking for a mirror finnish.

    my micromeshed cleaver taken to 12k

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  8. #8
    I have a micro mesh kit from Woodcraft that goes to 12,000 grit.

  9. #9
    The different Micro Mesh series have different grit ratings. Standard series 12000 is 2 micron, MX series 1200 is 3 micron. MX is designed for finishing metal and is available in coarser grits, where the standard is more effective on plastics and wood. They also have AO (aluminum oxide) series for metal, which may be more effective on some steels, but I haven't tried it. MX 1200 leaves a hazy mirror finish, standard 12000 is a little brighter.

  10. #10
    I've done it by laying a folded wash cloth on top of a stone and wrapping sheets of wet dry around the stone, lubricated with wd40 and laid the knife flat and used a motion similar to sharpening. took it from 320-1000 grit. it was quite quick, And left a nice hazy polish. Not sure it's the best way but I was pretty happy with the result.
    In order to make delicious food, you must eat delicious food. Jiro Ono

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