Convex?

[Mike L.]

I've been using a olde very cheap carbon chef knife with a convex edge formed on a sandpaper over mousepad gadget. Using only 400 grit paper it produces a powerful slicing edge. But, I'm a home cook who usually only prepares meals for myself. So, it doesn't have to last long until the next sharpening. I'm aware that this would never do in the Professional world.
No pics, because the knife is so horrible that I don't want to embarrass Knyfeknerd or even myself!

[Benuser]

Refine with finer sandpaper and the edge will last much longer. You may even consider stropping on leather or newspaper.

[EdipisReks]

Convex faces yes. Final bevels on very thin edges are much more practical as flat surfaces, and I think they cut better with less resistance. I tried very thin edges with convex final edges on my first few knives and it makes them a pain to maintain. On a thicker blade I say it can work, a convex on a cleaver works well, it does offer more support to the edge. But on uber thin edges I don't think the increase in support is noticeable and cutting resistance is increased as well as sharpening time.

right here is exactly how i do my gyutos.

[Keith Sinclair]

I thought blending the bevel into the blade face was a form of convex edge? Am I mistaken?

I would agree,blending bevels,which can only be done freehand can form a convex type edge.I call it back bevel & final bevel.The main thing & a mistake often made by begining sharpeners is rounding the edge.You want the two plains of your final bevel to meet to molecular infinity.

Lifting the spine at the end of a stroke either on a stone or strop can round your edge.Too high angles on a steel or over aggressive burr removal on the stone same thing.Thinning behind the edge,creating burrs,even if very fine burrs on polishing stones ending wt. lite strokes,to plains of bevel must meet.Cleaning up that edge,even newspaper works well.Main thing do not undo the edge wt. poor tech.

[VoodooMajik]

That's basically how I'm been working my Yoshihiro.

I've been thinning it up behind the edge at a fairly low angle forming a bevel above the edge, then I sharpen up the bevel on my cutting edge. Afterwords I have been blending them together and into the blade face. It seems to stick less, less resistance and simply cut better.

Standard progression (10 down for carbons, 30+ down for vg10). My explanation is fairly brief but I'm sure most of you can imagine what I'm up to. Is There anything I should watch for apart from not rollling/roundng the edge? Does this just sound like bad news?

[Keith Sinclair]

If it works for you who is to argue.I don't even out the two bevels,but looking wt. a loop they are blended not distinct.Like to polish in progression all the way back to the rear of back bevel,this works well,giving less resistance going through food.

I am finding in teaching culinary students & cooks in the buss. that rounding is common.Thanks to Dave's DVD I am better able to draw pictures & explain what works & why.