Quantcast
Whetstone and Sharpening advice - Page 2
+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 19 of 19

Thread: Whetstone and Sharpening advice

  1. #11
    Senior Member ChiliPepper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    168
    thanks for your input guys, that's much appreciated!
    So if I correctly interpret your thoughts that green brick is more a thing of hype rather than performance and my best bet to improve and experiment would be to stick with Rika, Chosera and Gesshin stones. (Bester maybe?)
    I'm not so sure about JNats, they kind of "intimidate" me, meaning they cost quite a bit and I'm not sure I've got skills to fully appreciate them.

    How would you suggest I enrich my current setup, i.e. - if you had to buy one or max two stones on top of what I've got what would you go for and why?

    If that helps my knives are a Hattori HD gyuto (vg10@61 hrc), a Yoshikane petty (SKD11@64 hrc) and a Felix german chefs (x50CrMoV15@?)

  2. #12
    Senior Member chinacats's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    2,288
    Having a knife heat treated to 64 is something that i am unfamiliar with, I would talk to Jon at JKI and see what advice he would offer.
    one man gathers what another man spills...

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Kagawa, Japan.
    Posts
    121
    I can't give you a recommendation of which stones but...

    Quote Originally Posted by ChiliPepper View Post
    a Yoshikane petty (SKD11@64 hrc)
    ... makes me think you're going to run into the limits of what some stones are capable of dealing with effectively.

    Granted, it's not a big knife which works to your advantage when sharpening it, but the abrasion resistance and relatively high hardness may pose some difficulties and you may be working away for longer on a stone than is optimal.

    Of course, there are some folks that can sharpen anything with anything and technique can make up for a stone that pushed beyond it's comfort zone.

    Speaking only for myself, when I find a stone that runs out of go, I stop using it and go with something that I know will get the task done. I have that luxury, but not everyone does.

    Stu.

  4. #14
    Senior Member

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Albany, NY
    Posts
    518
    J nats are probably not a good first choice for the steels you mention. What do you want to do that your current setup doesn't do? If you want to repair bevels, obviously go coarse; if you want and finer edge, then a finished. If you would specify your perceived current shortcomings, then we might be able to give our two cents' worth.

  5. #15
    Senior Member

    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    4,221
    These stones work fine on Yoshikane SKD's. They are hrc 62-64, iirc. Not too bad. I have sharpened zdp-189 at 64+ and not had a problem with any of these stones. The only problem steels I have run into are the S35VN (I believe.) used by Haslinger and Devin's SWR. Those guys do respond but are very slow to abrade.

  6. #16
    Senior Member ChiliPepper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    168
    Quote Originally Posted by pitonboy View Post
    J nats are probably not a good first choice for the steels you mention. What do you want to do that your current setup doesn't do? If you want to repair bevels, obviously go coarse; if you want and finer edge, then a finished. If you would specify your perceived current shortcomings, then we might be able to give our two cents' worth.
    Hey piton, my perceived shortcomings are that current stones (especially the 6000) are very reluctant to give up mud, either used splash-and-go or after 1 hour soaking. The 6000 also gives a "skiddy" feeling, feels a bit like working on a glassy surface with no proper feedback or attrition, if that makes sense.
    The only time I'm able to create mud is when (after soaking) I rub together the 1000 grit sides of the two combi to flatten them.
    It's no joy when I try to create mud just with a blade.
    I haven't tried to flatten the 6000 grit side with the other 1000: would that be a good thing to do or the 6000 might become "contaminated" with bigger particles?

  7. #17
    Senior Member ChiliPepper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    168
    Quote Originally Posted by Schtoo View Post
    I can't give you a recommendation of which stones but...


    Speaking only for myself, when I find a stone that runs out of go, I stop using it and go with something that I know will get the task done. I have that luxury, but not everyone does.

    Stu.
    Hey Stu, that's ok: I'm happy to add one or two stones (max) to my setup, it's just that I'm not 100% sure which ones.
    It seems that my initial idea to go for something like the Naniwa Green brick as a single stone solution is not that flash after all and I have thanks to you folks a few brands to choose from but still I'm confused as what would benefit me most.
    If I had to write down the questions I ask myself it would be something like: should I get a better 1000? an intermediate 2000? a 5000 before my current 6000? a 8000 to use as last step? Just replace my current stuff at same grit level with better brands?
    Not easy for me. Maybe I should just concentrate on practicing more!

  8. #18

    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Santa Barbara, CA
    Posts
    51
    Quote Originally Posted by ChiliPepper View Post
    If that helps my knives are a Hattori HD gyuto (vg10@61 hrc), a Yoshikane petty (SKD11@64 hrc) and a Felix german chefs (x50CrMoV15@?)
    For Yoshikane SKD11/D2 @64rc knives, I found edges off diamond plates & compounds sharper and last longer than using waterstones.

  9. #19
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    1,151
    I had a slick polishing stone,I gave it away.A little freehand skill goes a long way,much more than buying alot of stones.Broken record here,but the 1200 Bester is better than the green brick as a one stone setup.The Rika 5K is not slick at all,has great feedback.

    There are many freehand tutorals on the web.Jon at JKI and Martell has one of the better DVD's.

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts