Flat section

When I worked on one of Son's Trompettes, I asked him if he would like to see a flat section near to the heel. He did, and I've made one, symmetric, some 19 degree per side, some two inches long. Normally French come with it, but they soon disappear with the common steeling.
I've tried a comparable flat section with a Misono Swedish Carbon. A symmetric section at some 16 degree per side for small, relatively rough tasks.
It allows me to keep a highly asymmetric edge of some 20 degree inclusive on the rest of the blade.
Any thoughts?

that's how i have my French knives, more or less. i don't like the flat section to be flat, though, as i don't like my knives to clunk on the board.

Oh hell yeah, the flatter the better. I want a little curve heading towards the tip for slicing protein and walking, but otherwise I want as little camber along the edge as possible.

I've only ever used one usuba and remember it being pretty much dead flat, and can't say I noticed any "clunking" on the board. So if it's flat enough for an usuba, I'm stoked.

I like a flat section as well, but a little longer. 80-90mm works for me.

Dead flat is okay but a very slight curve is nicer for the most part. I like the flattish section on the long side but I can't say it bothers me too much either way. The problem with dead flat is it usually isn't. More often than not, the dead flat area has a slight recurve and that really clunks, plus you can't cut anything cleanly with it.

exactly, Tinh.

So it's not dead flat you guys have a problem with, it's recurve. I'm not sure why the terms are being interchanged?

Vertigo said:

So it's not dead flat you guys have a problem with, it's recurve. I'm not sure why the terms are being interchanged?

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"dead flat" sections have a tendency to have holes. i should know: i recently checked out the usuba that i had "finished" a year ago, and hadn't used much since, and i discovered that what i thought was a truly flat edge had a small, long hole. it cut fine on the board, so i thought it was fine. adding a slight curve counteracts this. a sharp, thin edge is going to dig into the board, so adding a slight curve isn't going to ruin the cut. this same effect is also why flat sections with holes seem to cut okay, but the hole gets worse the more one sharpens it.

IMO, a true flat spot is requisite in a quality gyuto. Granted everyone has their preferences but I like to see at least a three inch flat heel area. When I sharpen these knives I check that area with a flat surface and do my best to maintain it.

Agreed.

I don't like large truly flat bits. If you have a long gentle curve it's better I think. Even though it might be curved, there are still large flat areas if that makes sense