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Thread: How to make a tang slot repost

  1. #1

    How to make a tang slot repost

    Apparently I screwed up the photo links on the part on my how to thread that showed how I make the tang slot in a wa handle, so I'm reposting that part of the thread with pictures.

    Be well,
    Rule #1- Don't sweat the small s%&t, rule #2- It's ALL small s%&t

  2. #2
    As promised, this next set of post will be about fitting the handle to the Blade. This is the method that Iíve found works best for me. Iíve tried a lot of short cuts (spiral saw bit?...donít go there, just donít), but in the end Iíve gone back to the tried and true micro rasps and files. It takes a little longer then some methods, but results in a lot fewer mistakes. These are the tools I use (drill bit not shown).

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    Anyway, the first thing I do is mark out my desired slot with blue painters tape (whoever invented this stuff deserves a Nobel prize).

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    After Iíve marked out the slot I cover the rest of the handle in blue tape. This is just to physically protect the handle from any falls or slips with files.

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    I then drill two addition holes on opposite sides of the pilot hole (use a bit size that matches your slot width).

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    I normally use a round micro-rasp to join the holes, but in this case I used a round mini-file due to the M3 ferrule material.

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    After Iíve joined the holes together I finish shaping the slot with a flat and a square micro-rasp. I was pleasantly surprised that the micro-rasps worked very well on the M3 material.

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    Rule #1- Don't sweat the small s%&t, rule #2- It's ALL small s%&t

  3. #3
    Now comes the dangerous part. Time to remove the tape and fit the slot to the actual tang. Be very careful not to slip and mar the ferrule with the rasps. Hereís the finished work.

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    Notice that the finished slot is slightly biased to the left. This is intentional, and necessary, because the tang bulges out on the left side. This is fairly typical on hand forged J-knives and youíll see it more often than not.

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    My three critical criteria for proper fit are:

    The blade is axially aligned with the center of the bottom flat of the handle.

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    The blade is longitudinally aligned with the handle.

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    The spine and handle are lined up the way I want them.

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    This is sometimes to hardest thing to achieve. The tangs on hand forged J-knives are notoriously inconsistent in shape and taper. In this case I had to relieve the bottom of the slot a little bit to accommodate the slope on the bottom of the tang (the curve actually wasnít a problem).

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    Be well,
    Rule #1- Don't sweat the small s%&t, rule #2- It's ALL small s%&t

  4. #4

    ecchef's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    In the Village.
    Thanks Mikey! Very informative.
    Though I could not caution all I still might warn a few; Don't raise your hand to raise no flag atop no ship of fools. - Robert Hunter

  5. #5

    knyfeknerd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Charlotte, NC AKA The Queen City! The lint-filled belly button of the south.
    Thanks for taking the time to do this Mikey, excellente!
    If "Its" and "Buts" was candy and nuts, we'd all have a Merry Christmas
    -Cleon "Slammin'" Salmon

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Bangor Maine
    Very well done, cutting tang slots and fitting tangs drives me nuts.

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