grinding down the bolster

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My early adventures in sharpening have produced a knife (10" Sabatier Carbon Chef's) where part of the edge is ground down a little past where the bolster extends. So part of the edge won't hit the board until I grind down the bolster a bit. Any advice for doing this, other than using my coarsest stone and having at it?
 
Belt sander or an angle grinder. Just be careful and don't go crazy on the grinding.
 
Use sandpaper, and level the finger guard with the relief bevel. I use sandpaper on linen, grit P120 to start with.
 
Belt sander or an angle grinder. Just be careful and don't go crazy on the grinding.


+1
a. I wld prefer the belt sander.. sort of roll over the protruding part of bolster

b. IF I have to use an angle grinder, either I secure Knife has to be strongly secured or secure the Angle Grinder (AG) and bring the knife to the AG. I prefer the latter as it is safer. Ag with variable speed makes sense. IT does seem that there are more grit option on a belt sander than an angle grinder.

rgds
d
 
it would be the fastest way. just finish with sanding paper when you think you've done enough.
 
If you don't have a belt sander/grinder, a sharp file, vise, and cautious patience will go a long way. Afterwards you can clean up with sand paper.
 
Absolutely the worst thing about the Sab's...mine is due for more work again.

:cheffry:
 
I wish you lived close by. I'd borrow it for a few days and tune it up for you, just because. :D Is there anyone local who could do it for you?
 
That's true. It depends on the Sab, but in general, you're right. This is a minor annoyance, though I think Sabs (most) are worth the little bit of extra work.
 
not sure I have easy access to a belt sander or angle grinder. will check in with some friends, but may well end up filing this down.

after thinking a little more, I see why my original idea of using a stone wouldn't be so good.

it would be best to grind from the side and make the bolster flush with the side of the blade, yes?
 
I match the angle up with the primary (in sharpening terms) bevel. This allows you to sharpen just like it's a Japanese knife.
 
You could either file down the sides to match with the blade face, or you can file from the choil forward. I prefer the choil approach because it wont leave you with large scratches on the blade face and is easier to clean up, but it really depends on the knife and the bolster.
 
You could either file down the sides to match with the blade face, or you can file from the choil forward. I prefer the choil approach because it wont leave you with large scratches on the blade face and is easier to clean up, but it really depends on the knife and the bolster.

you are suggesting here to remove the entire portion of the bolster that extends below the handle, starting from the choil and moving forward, correct? interesting suggestion, will have to take a closer look at the knife and see how that would change my grip/hand position.
 
Here I what a freind of mine did for me on a old K-Sab if this helps. He did take a lo off as I was going to convert into a suji, but gives you an idea

Wh2Ym.jpg
 
Crimedog72 wrote:
the end result here would
be that the bolster is flush
with the face of the blade?

Exactly. You don't need to remove the entire finger guard, as Jmadams13's picture shows.
 
I only had mphim remove it completely, as I was converting it into a slicer. This is what the grind looked like when rescued it. It's the same idea tho, meaning grind it down so the edge is still servicable with out the finger guard getting in the way.

MZlOQ.jpg
 
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The craziest part is, that knife was very likely sharpened on a grinder before you saved it, yet the person doing the damage didn't think to take the finger guard back while working the edge. That all could have been avoided. Sheesh!
 
Probably why the antique store practically begged me to take it, lol. Turned out to make a nice slicer though, even with the 1/4"! spine at the heel.

Anyways, enough hijacking on part. Crimedog, any pis of your knife, so we can get an idea of how far you need to go?
 
The craziest part is, that knife was very likely sharpened on a grinder before you saved it, yet the person doing the damage didn't think to take the finger guard back while working the edge. That all could have been avoided. Sheesh!

Yeah, there were grinding marks all over the knife. I was able to get a lot of them out, but some still remain, bummer
 
I have some older knives with the same problem. Could I put the knife in a vise and use a Dremel tool to do the grinding? I don't have a belt sander or angle grinder.
 
I have some older knives with the same problem. Could I put the knife in a vise and use a Dremel tool to do the grinding? I don't have a belt sander or angle grinder.

yes, you can. Make sure you wrapp the blade so, you don't scratch it up and go slow and easy. and actually if you use the finer drum sander it will work cleaner and better then the grinfing stone attachment.
 

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