Takeda Gyuto AS 240mm Rust Problem

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chrisg

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After doing a bit of browsing around here tonight, I have found that a lot of people have gotten their Takeda knives to be somewhat rust proof.

I have a lot of issues with rust on mine, where it will rust within a matter of minutes. Does anyone have good advice on trying to get the rust levels down to a minimum? Also I haven't noticed a lot of patina activity. When it did rust, I used a green scotch bright pad to take it off. Was this a mistake?

Thank you
 
Green scotch is fine man. Watch Jons at JKS video on carbon steel knives, always make sure your knife is bone dry before setting it down anywhere. Wet towel/ dry towel on your station at all times. I prefer to wrap my Takedas in a paper towel before i put it back into the knife bag. I think it also depends on where you live and the climate there. Also, I like to oil mine a couple times a week with camellia oil, and that tends to help protect. You can always sell your Takedas to me and move on to those other knives :)
 
Keep it as dry as possible when not in use.
Make sure it's not rusty right off the stones and make sure your finish is fairly smooth.
If you live in a humid climate, good luck.
 
leave your knife to dry (once you've completely wiped off your knife as dry as you can) for at least 30 minutes to an hour before you put it back in the saya and store them in your knife bag whenever you can. this is why i hate plastic sheaths coz the knives don't get to breath and let the water evaporate from the surface. i don't use plastic sheaths on my carbons. i use a lamson knife safe for those or if i could afford it, wooden sayas.

i use mineral oil when i wanna coat my knives for protection, it's cheap, food safe and has no smell. dries out faster than most oils but it does the job. dries out in 2 weeks to a month.


if it's rusting pretty bad, i would rub it out with barkeeper's friend. but that would also take off that beautiful kurouchi finish. and then follow it up with baking soda to cancel out the acidity of the BKF. then rinse and wipe dry. but that's only IF it's getting pretty bad.

i have it in my mind that if i had a knife with kurouchi to preserve the finish and stop it from rusting, i would paint the knife with a thin layer of clear lacquer. but i dunno with expensive carbons, what i would do. i have an old hickory that has that coating and it does pretty well. but i got the knife that way and never messed with the finish. i might do it on cheaper kurouchi knives like tojiro itk's if i had the chance. don't do it if you're sure! =D

if you change your mind about the takeda and if it's a good price i'd take it off your hands. lol.
 
this is why i hate plastic sheaths coz the knives don't get to breath and let the water evaporate from the surface. i don't use plastic sheaths on my carbons.
.
plastic sheaths or edge protectors also will cause rust on many stainless knives too. theyre a PITA, but theyre cheap.
 
Now I'm trying to think of which knife I should try this with. Maybe Justin can chime in about how it's held up/curbed the reactivity of his Fowler (which is beautiful!!!). I'm thinking I might try it I with my Nogent parer or my Fuji petty. Both are used regularly, and on fairly acidic stuff.
 
plastic sheaths or edge protectors also will cause rust on many stainless knives too. theyre a PITA, but theyre cheap.

yes i noticed this as well on my western knives as well.


i meant don't do it if you're not sure!

=D
 
Green scotch brite pads come in different grits. Many restaurants get course grit, which will scratch a knife to heck....
 
The Takedas have laquer on them halfway up.

But yes, if you don't dry it almost immediately, anything below that is susceptible to the orange tinging.

The vinegar treatment would be an interesting proposition if you could but it in a horizontal half-bath below the kurouchi... let me know how it works out. :D
 
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