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Laser versus non-laser gyuto
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Thread: Laser versus non-laser gyuto

  1. #1
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    Laser versus non-laser gyuto

    I recently got both an Artifex 210 mm gyuto and a Konosuke HH 150 mm petty. I had the Artifex thinned out behind the edge before I got it.

    The Artifex cut great. However, when I cut some veggies using the Konosuke, it cut even greater. I simply had a noticeable thinner blade. (The issue was not so much that the Artifex quickly wedged - I had it been thinned out - it simply had a thicker blade.) On the other hand, the size and height of the Artifex are much better for cutting most stuff.

    Now my question is: does a Konosuke 210/240 mm gyuto have a similar thickness and profile as the Konosuke 150 mm petty? I that case I will at least consider a laser gyuto like the Konosuke (Gesshin Ginga, Suisin, ...)

  2. #2
    Senior Member WiscoNole's Avatar
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    Yes, you will find a similar thin profile on the gyuto, and yes, it does make a noticeable difference.

    that said, I would definitely get a Tadatsuna over a Suisin, and I have owned both. The Suisin seems much more factory-made (I.E. stamped kanji vs. engraved, lack of handle pin, etc).

  3. #3
    Senior Member labor of love's Avatar
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    suisins come with a saya pins, if thats the same as a handle pins.

  4. #4
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    I don't think laser or non laser matters. When cutting, I think the thinness behind the edge is what shows. My gengetsu and kochi both cut with less resistance then my suisin or tadatsuna cut.... Just my opinion but grind and thinness behind the edge both account for better ease of cutting then the thickness of the knife at the spine..

    -Chuck

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuck239 View Post
    I don't think laser or non laser matters. When cutting, I think the thinness behind the edge is what shows. My gengetsu and kochi both cut with less resistance then my suisin or tadatsuna cut.... Just my opinion but grind and thinness behind the edge both account for better ease of cutting then the thickness of the knife at the spine..

    -Chuck
    +1... It's the blade profile that causes this. It's not that it's just thinned behind the edge, it where the conveying begins and how much. You artifex isn't shaped right.
    "So you want to be a vegetarian? Hitler was a vegetarian and look at how he turned out."

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    Quote Originally Posted by El Pescador View Post
    +1... It's the blade profile that causes this. It's not that it's just thinned behind the edge, it where the conveying begins and how much. You artifex isn't shaped right.
    Can you give some specifics? The Artifex profile looks almost identical to the Hattori FH and the Aritsugu.

  7. #7
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    profile, geometry, thinness behind the edge.

    taper from base of handle to tip.

  8. #8
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    I think the profile is more similar to that of the masamoto vg. Geometry OTB is strongly convexed on both sides and thickness similar to classic wusthof's and henckel's.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by James View Post
    I think the profile is more similar to that of the masamoto vg. Geometry OTB is strongly convexed on both sides and thickness similar to classic wusthof's and henckel's.
    Yikes! Sounds thick!
    one man gathers what another man spills...

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by chuck239 View Post
    I don't think laser or non laser matters. When cutting, I think the thinness behind the edge is what shows. My gengetsu and kochi both cut with less resistance then my suisin or tadatsuna cut.... Just my opinion but grind and thinness behind the edge both account for better ease of cutting then the thickness of the knife at the spine..

    -Chuck

    This is very true. Ask anybody who has cut with a Takeda or Shigefusa and they will say the same. IMO some level of thickness at the spine is agood thing in a chefs knife.

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