Evolution of a D Handle

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Marko Tsourkan

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I have mentioned recently that I am going to phase out horn due to a difficulty of securing a quality supply. I looked at several substitutes, and the best I liked are blackwood and ebony. However, I do not like to leave the wood end-grain exposed, so to address that, I will cap it with a metal.

It took me a while to work out the process, but below is a D-style handle that you will see on my knives from now on. I incorporated a few changes that were suggested during the private feedback and a current pass-around, so I think for the most part, the process is finalized.

For a metal cap, the choice will be nickel silver, aged bronze, stainless steel and DT mokume. A spacer of the same metal can be added.

I will also offer octagonal handles in the same construction, though I get barely any requests for them.

One drawback is that it takes me a longer time to complete a handle in this construction and I will have to surcharge for the extra labor. It won't be applied to orders that I accepted deposits or payments for, but for all others, I unfortunately have to. DT Mokume, will be extra, but bronze or nickel silver will be included. Stainless steel I am looking for right now, so it is not a choice yet.

Sorry for subpar pics - got home when it was dark already and am gifting this knife tonight, so this is the only opportunity to take pics.


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Marko, you clearly are a masochist ;) But they do look great.

Stefan
 
I have to admit I am a little surprised by more people going D over octagon, they both look great, I just thought more prefered the octagon.
 
Excellent Marko, the tapered bolster looks like it will feel good in the hand. Very nice work as always.
 
It's funny I generally like octagon handles, but when I get my Marko's made, I gotta go with the D. Your d's look really comfortable Marko, I like the cap on the end, I can always tell a Marko handle, clean look.
 
Beautiful. The handle isn't bad either.
 
How do you think it would look with a piece of your 52100 ? With patina
 
Thanks folks, I appreciate your comments and support.

I am not a masochist, really, just this construction is more of a logical step given the materials available. The unfortunate side effect - it takes more effort to make.

A spacer could be added, though personally, I like the handle without it. DT mokume tip will be lightly etched and over time it will age very nicely. I suppose, I could add brass to the list metals to choose the tip from.

The minor changes I made to the D design were to address the comfort of a handle-grip, as well as a transition between a handle-grip to a pinch-grip.

I decided to replace the handle of a pass-around gyuto to the updated one (knife is with me at the moment), so I can gather more feedback. Planning on dropping it off with Son on January 2.

M
 
How do you think it would look with a piece of your 52100 ? With patina

It should look pretty good. I found that pork fat and juices bring the most vibrant patina on 52100. Onions don't even come close.

M
 
mmmmhhhh, pork fat.
.

I've got a chunk of mortadella in the fridge. Now if someone could send me a MT suji, I'd be happy to start on that patina for them. Might take quite a long time though.....
 
Marko, what does a D handle do for you that an octagon or western "Coke bottle" handle does not?
 
I can appreciate why you had to come to this conclusion - it makes sense, and I think it's a elegant way to deal with the situation. I have to say, though, I prefer the horn bolster.

Question - do you have nay taper to your D handles, or are they level from back to front?
 
All my handles are tapered back to front on all four sides, plus a taper at the ferrule.

I have used horn up to this point, however, blackwood polishes to just a notch below horn, and if a handle is made of natural woods, the movement of blackwood is comparable to the wood the handle is made of, while horn moves at a different rate.

I will add that this design has grown on me substantially. I have three more handles in works, so hopefully pics of these will do the handle a better justice.

M
 
mmmmhhhh, pork fat.

I love my Marko D handle. Nice work Marko.

k.
I agree with mr drinky. Marko's D handle is extremely comfortable and controllable. Aesthetically though, I lean towards the use of a spacer as it provides what I think is a nice contrast between handle and ferrule. The use of an end cap would busy that up a bit, but if the proportion between the spacer and the end cap works I think the use of a spacer still makes aesthetic sense. Either way, Marko's handles are top notch.
 
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I agree with mr drinky. Marko's D handle is extremely comfortable and controllable. Aesthetically though, I lean towards the use of a spacer as it provides what I think is a nice contrast between handle and ferrule. The use of an end cap would busy that up a bit
this is so my opinion. me too, i am afraid that this additional end cap is just too much. so, my dream handle from marko would have a spacer, black horn ferrule, but no endcap.
 
+1. I like what you've done but something in me still prefers the more classic look.
 
Stick with the classic look if you want to be like everyone else. Personally I love the look. It makes a statement. " I'm better than the rest".
Plus it really anchors the balance point.
 
Stick with the classic look if you want to be like everyone else. Personally I love the look. It makes a statement. " I'm better than the rest".
Plus it really anchors the balance point.

I am glad you liked the new look. I think in terms of elegance, the new look is at least as good as old, the metal on metal makes a cleaner connection (besides improving balance), and adding a spacer is an option.

I won't turn down a request for the classic look, but it would have to be a wood ferrule instead of horn (ebony or blackwood) and I would need to protect the end-grain of the ferrule, to assure the longevity of the handle. I have heard that stabilizing blackwood is possible, so I might be looking into it.

I need to finish a couple more and post better pictures of the handles!

M
 
Marko, If mark doesn't have it, Chuck at Alpha will occasionally have some stabilized blackwood blocks. With that said, it is probably a wood that needs and benefits from stabilizing the least. It may also be the oiliest wood that you can actually stabilize. :lol2:
I am glad you liked the new look. I think in terms of elegance, the new look is at least as good as old, the metal on metal makes a cleaner connection (besides improving balance), and adding a spacer is an option.

I won't turn down a request for the classic look, but it would have to be a wood ferrule instead of horn (ebony or blackwood) and I would need to protect the end-grain of the ferrule, to assure the longevity of the handle. I have heard that stabilizing blackwood is possible, so I might be looking into it.

I need to finish a couple more and post better pictures of the handles!

M
 
Anything that could reduce the movement of blackwood or ebony would be of a benefit when you use a metal spacer or a tip. I have heard K&G can do stabilizing, so I am going to send them some shortly.

M
 
I had some snakewood and blackwood that was stabilized by K&G. Short-term I did not really see much of a difference, maybe that is something that will have benefits over time, not sure.

Stefan
 
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