Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 18

Thread: Need newbie help: Kikuichi Elite Carbon 240

  1. #1

    Need newbie help: Kikuichi Elite Carbon 240

    Hi Guys,

    I recently bought a Kikuichi Elite Carbon chef knife. I know it's not the best knife for the money or made of the best steel but...

    I got some Henkels for Xmas (a 3 knife set) and didn't need them so a mom and pop shop was nice enough to let me return them for a $100 credit towards a knife. I wanted a carbon knife and the only knife they had that fit the bill was the Kikuichi. Unfortunately, the only one they had left was the display model. It was already a little rusted and not very sharp.

    Since it's my first carbon knife my plan is to use it to learn to care for carbon knives so I can one day get a much nicer one. Really, it only cost me $48 so I'm not too worried about using it as a learning knife.

    1)I would really like to polish it so it's nice and shiny again. I'm not sure about the process to go about this though. Do I just need progressively higher grits of sandpaper?
    2)After polishing the rust off it, I'd really like to force a patina with blood. I already tried blood from chicken livers but it did nothing except slightly stain the knife; it mostly looks like water marks. I've stalked the "my favorite color is blue" thread an that's exactly what I'm looking for
    3)I've sharpened it on a king 800/6000 stone I bought. It will cut through paper now but I'm not sure if this is as sharp as it will get or if I can do better. I've never sharpened a knife before. How do you know you're done?

    Any suggestions?

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    San Diego, CA
    1. Yes, but it's not worth it, imo. Just get rid of the rust and then let the patina form.
    2. Patina is oxidation. It takes time. If you want to speed it up, cut a nice warm roast or something.
    3. You're done when it cuts the way you want it to cut. Edge preference is very personal. You'll eventually prioritize edge retention, aggresiveness, refinement, etc. If you want a benchmark, send it out for a professional sharpening (JKI or JKS).

    Have fun!

  3. #3
    Senior Member/ Internet Hooligan
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Just splashing some cold blood on the knife isn't going to do a lot; like TK said, it's oxidation and it takes time.

    When I want to start a new patina on a carbon, I usually:

    1. Open a pack of tri-trip, drain the blood and heat it in a sauce pan;
    2. Season and roast the tri-tip to medium rare, let it rest, then thin slice it using the entirety of the blade. Go slow, wipe the knife off every few slices.
    3. Collect the hot beef juice off the board into a pan or something, add just a splash of acidity (small squeeze of lime), add the blood from the sauce pan;
    4. Wipe the knife clean, drizzle blood onto one side of the knife, gently lay plastic wrap on knife and wiggle it around so the gunk is evenly dispersed against the blade;
    5. Flip the blade and repeat, then walk away from it for 30-45 minutes.


    Different carbon will respond differently, so YMMV. That's just one man's technique.

  4. #4
    Thanks guys!

    Has anyone tried peroxide to oxidize carbon? I was thinking of mixing 30% H2O2 into glycerol so it's thick enough to paint on. Does strong oxidation just turn the knife black?

  5. #5
    Senior Member turbochef422's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    New York
    I've found the best looking patina is just from constant use. The colors I get from using a knife every day and for a while I've never been able to replicate. And it just keeps looking better as time goes on

  6. #6
    Senior Member Jmadams13's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    South Central PA
    ^ +1. I've played with forced patinas, but find the best comes from use, more use, then some more, and then even more.

    A good worked patina is a thing of pride in my eyes. Unless your forcing to help lower reactivity, but then again, I've seen the best patina for reactivity is a working one as well, but that may just be my knives. Most of mine are white, unknown carbon, or vintage.
    "This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.. Beer!" -Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves, Friar Tuck

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Coolville, Ohio
    i have a Hiromoto AS gyuto and when tomato season roles around, we'll cut up a case or so and it turns it black and i love it until then though it's a nice blue haze. I recommend tomatoes but again, I don't know a thing and I don't cut meat at the restaurant.

  8. #8
    Senior Member stevenStefano's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Norn Iron
    I used to spend ages trying out different forced patinas but in the end I felt it was a waste of time because the things I cut made their own patina. Just use the knife

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Salt Lake City, UT
    Quote Originally Posted by stevenStefano View Post
    I used to spend ages trying out different forced patinas but in the end I felt it was a waste of time because the things I cut made their own patina. Just use the knife

    Not sure why you would think the Kikuichi is a lesser knife, I loved mine, it got stupid sharp and retention was pretty good. It may take some tuning up, but the knife should give you years of great service.

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Sounds like you got a good carbon blade for cheap.If you want to take down the rust that was on it,you can use some Bar keepers friend,then as said just use it to cut everything.Fruits ,vegitables,meats,after a while a patina will start forming.At first make sure to keep the blade dry.After use immediately wash wt. warm water & dry completely,even a little oil when not using does not hurt.After the patina starts forming rust protection increases.Carbon knives work best when used alot.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts