paosquared
Active Member
after doing a tip repair, is it worth trying to fix the loss of distal taper?
Tip Repair + Distal Taper
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The cases can be very different, depending on how drastic the distal taper is and how much has been removed. Quite some blades have a relative thickening at the very tip. The location of the tip can be different: spear point, or low, as in traditional gyutos. You may want to thin the tip area far behind the edge for better performance. For a more precise answer, please let us know what kind of knife is concerned and how much length has been lost. Pictures would be very helpful.
paosquared
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Looks like an easy job. I wouldn't worry about the distal taper — it's no vintage Sab with a paper thin tip. Still, after the work it will require some light sharpening to remove the burr at the end of edge. It could otherwise cause new chipping.
DoYoon Kim
Senior Member
Might not be the most qualified to speak on this subject, but also a beginner mistake i want to share that i did... be extra careful when going from the spine side instead of sharpening up from each side of the blade. I've tipped the edge again when I got close to being done cause how thin the edge is on a pink brick.it's a yoshikane skd 240mm.i plan to take some material off the spine to remove the chip and not touching the edge.
I've never had a re-tipping slowly moving the edge up.
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Working from the spine is the safest way to keep the original profile.
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This. I’ve done this 5-10 times on Atoma plates and it takes 3-5 min
I have this knife too, how did you break it (so i can avoid doing the same)it's a yoshikane skd 240mm.
what products do you avoid with this knife,
and how fragile is this steel compared with other options.
thanks.
Byphy
By
Try cutting w it first. See how you feel about it
paosquared
Active Member
Looks fine on my end. How is the cutting performance?
Uncle Danny
Sorry about that pineapple pizza thing
I wouldn’t sweat it. Looks fine and as long as it performs the way you want it to, you’re all good.
I mean, if you want to go full monty, I don’t blame you, I would do it - but I’m no sane person.
I mean, if you want to go full monty, I don’t blame you, I would do it - but I’m no sane person.
Looks good. A new Yoshikane looks slightly different .You can more closely match the as new profile by removing a bit more spine from tip up to the KU/hammered area. To avoid re tipping I would work only in heel towards tip direction. This should give a bit more distal taper as well
Looks great. I would leave it. Thinning it out, then making it look nice again, will be a major undertaking and absolutely not worth it.
paosquared
Active Member
feels okay on an onion!
hi, thanks for the advice. do you think you could show on my blade where i should take off material?
Here’s an overlay - you’re very close
paosquared
Active Member
oof, i'll have to take some off the edge too?
I wouldn’t touch the edge other than sharpen/strop after you’re done just take a tiny bit more off the spine from tip towards the KU (the grey above the white)
What you’ve done is also fine
What you’ve done is also fine
paosquared
Active Member
so i started to do it but it was so much work for so little.... is this any better?
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Looks great !
paosquared
Active Member
thanks! you can tell a difference? because i can barely tell lol
After- Smoother transition from tip to spine
Before - A very slight bulge above the clad /core line
Before - A very slight bulge above the clad /core line
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paosquared
Active Member
i see! that's see easy to miss .... do i need to do anything more? i'm just worried i took off too much material, as you can see in the initial chip pic where the cladding line meets the spine...
Good as new, use and enjoy !
