Recent content by kayman67

It's not uncommon for kitchen knives to be very thin above the edge and use more of a microbevel at high dps (degrees per side). Pocket blades are somewhat different in this. You need to find what works best for the way you use the knives.

You need to work some mud on it with a softer stone. Pretty much all hard low grit stones behave the same. It's a tradeoff.

OCB is still a resin equivalent. The idea behind it was to cut as good as possible, but not chip very hard alloys at low angles. So there's a tradeoff we need to accept. The others are boron based if I remember correctly and sintered to the metal.

Great things put together. 100 side is faster, but I guess all things considered, won't make much difference. 80 I used only for repairs. Definitely the better choice for those. I also did some things just as part of my all time routines. I'm big on dressing stones. For example I use a soft...

Good idea. Always liked doing stunts like this. It is perfectly possible to have a clean shaving edge from a new or fairly new plate, nothing else used, so no stropping and such (it gets a lot easier if the plate was used). Even much lower than 140. Thing is, it's all pressure sensitive. This...

Thing is, when you find a diamond/cbn stuff that works without any hassle, you have this reaction of actual normality really. I know that feeling. This is how it was supposed to be, what was expected, but never met before.

Reading this made me regret that I never wrote and documented all the stones and hones I got over the years. Eventually all is forgotten, life happens and without some sort of info written at the time, all is lost.

I'm testing his 15V as we "speak". It's impressive how low the angles can be for such alloy (so the heat treatment seems spot on) and how well it behaved overall. But I didn't bother with anything else except cbn and diamonds for this.

It's all about a principle, rather than hard or soft or anything else. Interactions between abrasives (in various delivery methods) and alloys, have various outcomes. It's just physics. The principle, the goal, is a clean solid structure with still an, let's say, attitude. For most people, the...

Kip's method is not really related to a high angle in terms of apex development, it's a pass just to remove that burr flipping. And goes on with edge leading, as that's pretty much the better practice already mentioned. Post in thread 'Kippington Deburring Video' Kippington Deburring Video...

So you actually try to remove the burr but with one pass into that you already have a burr on the other side?

And you push the burr towards the final step until you do that?

You have the answer in my reply above, even with a specific situation. But, in general, edge trailing, will flip right away and might generate the false idea of an apex or other issues (as that's what you are checking for). Sharpening is a simple process in itself, but quite a few things are...

What happens is that you might just push it back, expecially true starting with edge trailing, even more so with stones and some alloys (so not every sharpening surface and alloys would behave exactly the same). So having a burr on the other side right away isn't telling us that much about the...

I understand your concern. You could form a burr, see and feel it, even push it back on both sides and actually not having an apex. If that apex was wide enough to begin with (or the angle lowered, behaviour being the same), it's actually a common issue with pocket blades. That's why you need...