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  1. B

    Fast Quenching Oils

    I use Excelquench 603, a fast quench oil available in the UK. Gives a decent hamon with 1095, without the dreaded ping.
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    Metal Master a good website to order from?

    I’ve ordered a stone from him and it took 6 or 7 weeks to get to the UK. I had pretty much given up on it, but it did turn up. Shite stone it was too - felt like it was picked up off a building site.
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    Waiting Times & Price Increases

    Engorged perhaps. Inflated like the prices of pure walrus willy. I wonder if it’s hard to erect handles from it. Maybe it takes two hands.
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    Waiting Times & Price Increases

    ^ this walrus willy is the next big thing...
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    Martell Knife Blanks: WIP

    Looks like Jarrah to me, with some curly figure too. It's a hard timber that polishes up nicely and darkens with age. Historically it was widely used for construction in Australia, but these days it's too valuable for that so it's mainly used in fine furniture. I've used the burl form for...
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    Stop, Hamon time...

    Here’s a shot of some blades with clay before the heat treat.
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    Stop, Hamon time...

    I’m glad this baby worked - 265mm at the edge, all straight and true. As before it’s 61RC and western handle, ground for a righty. I’ve gone for an asymmetric grind so I can get it nice and thin behind the edge (under 1mm thick 12mm back from the edge) while still retaining some convexity on the...
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    Question for pros: Thinning knife on belt sander with "edge leading"?

    Yep, a full face powered respirator, apron and ear plugs are standard for me. I also wear leather gloves when hogging prior to heat treat, but afterwards I have skin in the game to feel the blade temperature.
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    Question for pros: Thinning knife on belt sander with "edge leading"?

    It's normal to grind blades edge leading (edge up with belt traveling down) and you should do both sides that way if you can. How else can you see what's happening at the edge? Provided you push the blade onto the belt at a low angle with loose hands and let the bevel find its level, so to...
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    Stop, Hamon time...

    The temp is good, I've got a paragon kiln and I've double checked the thermocouple with one I had in my forge. The hamon followed the clay well at the front but less so at the back; I assume it started to crack off as soon as it hit the oil. I think perhaps I put the clay on too thick, which...
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    Stop, Hamon time...

    I gave it 10 seconds in ferric just to bring it out, but will polish it to a higher grit then use vinegar or lemon juice, as the ferric kinda makes it look dirty. I use Excelquench 603, and have 25L while only needing 10. If anyone is based near London (UK) and wants some get in touch...
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    Stop, Hamon time...

    I hope the image works. Gyuto in 1095. I cut, profiled and half ground 6 blades in 210-270 sizes, thermal cycled them to reduce grain and then promptly broke 4 in the quench (brine). I did the last two in a fast oil and I think that's the way forward for me from now on. There's still plenty of...
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    Catcheside 235 Catchy Blue Gyuto

    I believe this is one of his forged geometry knives - a bit like a subtle 's' grind except forged in. He finishes the wide bevel on stones so it's perfectly flat and easy to thin as the years go by. These are considerably more expensive in the UK so this is a bargain.
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    Stainless Recommendation

    I sharpen my wife's stainless knives (Victorinox) on a King 800. Leaves them nice and toothy so they'll slice tomatoes for a month. It also does double duty as a half decent kasumi polisher for my wide bevels.
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    Forged a new suji, San mai 1.2519 & puddled wrought iron

    The wrought iron has a natural wavy grain, as well as small slag lines and inclusions. It's more corrosion resistant than mild steel or iron alone, plus I've etched it in ferric and it's taken on a really nice, stable patina with some use. Eventually I'm planning to make some stainless san mai...
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    Who can weld hardened stainless steel (Niolox)?

    Agreed, it's a false economy as the time it would take and the risk of failure far outweighs another two or three inches of material. That said a good weld done correctly can often be stronger than the parent material.
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    T is for Taper..

    Photobucket are charging $300 a year to host pictures now. Even if their site worked properly that would be expensive, but considering how rubbish the experience was I'm switching to Cubeupload - it's simpler and runs on donations.
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    Forged a new suji, San mai 1.2519 & puddled wrought iron

    Since Photobucket have imploded I'll have to put another picture up..
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    Culling the herd

    A magnificent obsession.. You make me feel a good deal less crazy, so thank you.
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    Who can weld hardened stainless steel (Niolox)?

    Martensitic stainless steels really need pre and post heat treatments to prevent cracking, so I wouldn't try it on a hardened blade whilst trying to keep part of it cool. The problem with welding high carbon stainless is that it'll air harden on cooling so you'll have to at least temper it, and...
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