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Dimensions here - Toshihirosaku Kasumi Gyuto 240mm

I bought it here 3 years ago and rarely use it. I'm just more likely to grab a 210 in my home kitchen. The pictures show condition. $190 shipped in continental U.S. Paypal only.

Apache Strata from the southwest are well thought of by experienced Jnat users.

Aogami Super and Shirogami are very different. Shirogami is more reactive, gets marginally sharper and is easier to sharpen, but does not hold its edge nearly as well. You won't need a 1000 stone for some time. A 4-6k would keep the edge going for a long time

From the description and pictures, this is looks like like a great knife, maybe even a bit laser. The Aogami Super is less reactive that other high carbon steels and has better edge retention. It might not feel as good on the stones as Shirogami but it is a fantastic Hitachi steel. Clad in...

I added a Honesuki. I love the curved edge and magical tip. Are there any special techniques I should be using to sharpen it. The obvious is a rolling stroke. I have not had any problems but want to make sure I'm not missing something. It came with a nice edge. I am finishing on a Shobudani...

What's wrong with this one that you listed. Blue Super - stainless clad. Looks like an awesome Gyuto. https://sharpknifeshop.com/collections/gyuto/products/tosaichi-shadow-gyuto-240-mm

A buffing wheel will give the metal a soft look, and if you are not careful you can overheat the metal. It polishes without actually flattening the surface. That is why sword polishers only use stones.

Stropping in your hand is stropping on live leather. I have done that in a pinch, but nothing beats a good stropping progression. I use hard linen, Kanayama cotton and then Kanayama horse hide. You might get away without stropping, but I do it post shave just to get the moisture and crude off...

It is all relative. What one person considers shave ready is very different for someone else. But this forum is not the place for this discussion. There are many other forums that focus exclusively on the stropping, honing, stone selection, pasted strops, pasted balsa wood, film etc... I...

There is so much misinformation on this thread I don't know where to start. The discussion on tape is so misguided and wrong; and the suggestion that stropping is not needed is laughable. I suggest sticking to knives on this forum where extreme expertise is abundant and leave razors to other...

Depends on the knife and how much is thinning is needed. Of course less is more so if you can get it done with a 320-400 - Geshin splash and go are great. If not Geshin 220 moving to Chosera 1000 to your best natural. Softer self slurry jnat would be best final stage depending on your knife...

10 x 3 x 3 self slurry fast cutting Nakayama 3-4 hardness and particle. I know $1500+ but a fairy was mentioned.

Contrary to mythology this process does not remove the burr. It simply folds it. Nothing wrong with that, but realize that is what is happening. Don't believe me, take a strong magnet and try to extract some metal bits from the felt. You won't find any. You can accomplish the same with any...

I would put the diamond honing steel away. Simple stropping on newspaper, your leg, cardboard, your finest stone, CroMox denim, will all bring it back without the kind of damage a honing rod can do. Also, you might want to invest in an end grain butcher block.

What cutting board are you using? My Wakui is White 2 and the edge lasts and lasts.

This has to be the dumbest thread I have read in a long time. Had you simply contacted the maker with your concerns rather than whining here, your post would have been a proud picture of the knife and kudos to the maker.

In thx!

Jon's conclusion ends the debate on what he said. The confusion comes in his use of two words, "hold and take" . Yes, he says Blue Super can hold the most acute angle, but White #1 can "take" the most acute angle and of the White Steels #1 can hold this acute angle the best. White Steel (White...