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I have that vise shown in the pic---it really helps. Holds blades with or without handles, and flips from one side to the other in a few seconds.

Sorry you felt you had to pay the ransom. For future reference, it's almost always possible to recover from these things. In your case doing a google search for something like "msiexec bitcoin virus" would give you many hits (I just did it and got > 5,000), some of which would help you access...

The best thing I've found is a needle rasp set from Woodcraft--it's much much faster than needle files. Two problems: one, it's expensive, and two, it's no longer available. I would go down to your local Woodcraft store and see if they have any left. Most of the stuff on eBay is junk...

He currently hangs out on a couple of coffee forums. Same personality there---he's always right, and gets very prickly when someone suggests otherwise.

Here's a description of a Tosagata knife from Japan Woodworker, where I've bought several of these. Incredible knives for the money. They are reactive, but no more so than other kurouchi blades. These finely crafted small knives come from the Tosa Region on Shikoku Island, where the master...

First off, let me say that the wood dealer involved here has NOTHING WHATSOEVER to do with KKF. I just bought a piece of koa. Here's what it looked like in the dealer's photo: I got it today and took my own picture (after wetting it with water as the dealer said he did): I don't...

Knife is SPF, thanks, and apologies for a sloppy first sale. FWIW, the knife is ground symmetrically and sharpened asymmetrically.

Sorry, as this is my first sale here I forgot some stuff. I'll cover paypal fees and shipping to the U.S. Shipping outside the U.S. will be billed at cost.

Thanks for the info PT. Given that Devin probably has #1, this could be quite the collectible. Forgot to mention steel is AEB-L.

Acquired this recently here, decided it's too large for me. Heel-to-tip length is a shade under 260mm. Knife came with some sharpening scratches; I cleaned it up with Very Fine then Super Fine Scotchbrite belts; it's flawless now. Not sure what the #2 means. It's slightly thinned and nicely...

My Gihei santoku in HAP40 from Hida Tool is the single best cutter I own. Their grinder doesn't seem to believe in the current trendy notion that convex is required for food release, so the blade is hyper-thin a long way up toward the spine. It just falls through everything.

This is exactly right. I've sharpened and thinned many knives on a belt grinder, and the first few junk knives I did for practice showed this effect. You tend to put the knife on the belt at the heel and THEN start moving it, so it spends a tiny bit more time at the heel on the belt. With the...

Will you be adding those to your store?

Can't quite tell from the pics----is the kanji on that etched or incised?

I may have missed something, but it looked to me like the Korin guy did a flat bevel---align the shinogi line on the stone, sharpen until you raise a burr.

I'm a pretty good freehand sharpener, but find I get much better results on small blades like folders with an EdgePro.

+1 I consider Itinomonn equivalent to a Shigefusa, at around 1/2--1/3 the price. Beautifully ground, impeccable fit and finish---with stainless cladding to boot.

That Nguyen piece is sweet. Yours is still impressive. :cool2:

I think the main thing a beginner might want in a finisher would be something a little on the softer side. Super hard stones are not very forgiving, and can result in "faceted" edges if not used properly. Of the ones you mentioned, I like the Rika---after it soaks for an hour or so.

I've only used one synthetic fingerstone that worked: it's a tiny 1k stone sold by Maxim, and it's really really nice. As Mr. Magnus said, the slurry causing the fine scratches may be from stones that are too hard or have inclusions. I've had cases where two fingerstones broken off from the same...