150mm Honesuki

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Tim Rowland

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Just finished this one up.
It was my 1st try at one.
I think i might go with slightly thicker stock on the next one.
150mm from 3/32" 52100 at Rc 61.
African Mahogany and black canvas micarta.
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is that first picture spine or choil, its playing tricks on me
 
It's the choil.
I started with that pic as it is always the most requested angle of any knife here. ;)
i may have gone to thin behind the edge making it more of a k-tip petty rather than a honesuki.
Although I don't personally use mine to go through bone when breaking down chickens so I don't mind a thinner edge.
 
This is very similar to my latest mockup. I too put a large radius from the handle to the heel.

I was concerned about safety with something like that, do you think it is a potential hazard?

I am not a chef, hence why I do not understand safe features fully for example, how a WA handle should always be tapered to prevent spliping
 
This is very similar to my latest mockup. I too put a large radius from the handle to the heel.
I was concerned about safety with something like that, do you think it is a potential hazard?
I am not a chef, hence why I do not understand safe features fully for example, how a WA handle should always be tapered to prevent slipping

I do not see it as a safety hazard if held and used correctly. Some well known companies/smiths have a radius on their honesukis as well like Anryu, and Kato. Yes traditionally the blade has a straight choil/heel but I wasn't going for strictly traditional or it would have been slightly thicker stock and more of an 80/20 edge bias vs the 50/50 I went with and a smaller k-tip.
As with any sharp tool if used improperly there will be risks involved.
As a chef with over 20 years in commercial kitchens I feel it is perfectly safe, though I also feel I should not have to build everything strictly for safety........I'm the type that doesn't believe in safety warnings on every damn product either. If you burn yourself with an iron because their was no safety warning telling you its hot then you are a perfect candidate for natural selection. :D
 
Haha completely understand. I was considering using the radium of my wheel on the 1x30 to add a radius, if not it's going to be relatively straight lines I think
 
That is the exact correct thing to do.
Design your knives and the curves around your equipment (as long as those radius are functional) obviously if you only have some home depot 6" double wheel bench grinder you cant use that radius for a choil, but you get the point.
I believe the top wheel on most 1x30 grinders is around 1" or 1.5" just make sure to hand sand after using a dowel or something to remove any "chatter" that may have been caused by such a small wheel. Also remember that most small wheels on a 1x30 grinder are not flat, they are crowned.
 
That is the exact correct thing to do.
Design your knives and the curves around your equipment (as long as those radius are functional) obviously if you only have some home depot 6" double wheel bench grinder you cant use that radius for a choil, but you get the point.
I believe the top wheel on most 1x30 grinders is around 1" or 1.5" just make sure to hand sand after using a dowel or something to remove any "chatter" that may have been caused by such a small wheel. Also remember that most small wheels on a 1x30 grinder are not flat, they are crowned.

Being crowned is a very good point, I didn't consider that. I have gone for a straight heel with a simple radius equal to that of my files.
 

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