5 nanometer edge on a knife made from 1 micron carbide steel "vancron superclean"

Kitchen Knife Forums

Help Support Kitchen Knife Forums:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
OK, thanks. The potential to mess up the edge due to more difficulties in sharpening and especially if going to higher grit and more passes makes sense.
I would aso argue that a 240mm+ long super thin bevel (0.05mm height) on a kitchen knife is even harder freehand compared to a small fixed blade with a 1mm+edge where it's way easier to feel/see if you actually hit the bevel.

That being sad, I sold my guided system a while ago 😂
 
I would actually be interested in the metrology used to determine it is truly five nanometer abrasive. I mean, that's extremely small, like several times smaller than a virus. Surely the metrology is out there, of that there is no doubt but I'd still be curious how it was quantified. The reduction method would also be interesting though it may well be proprietary. I mean, you're not getting five nanometer feed material.
As far as I know, a virus is about 5 nanometers in size. I don't know the english terms to describe the process, but it exists. I am sure you will find something in English as well. (Edit: I know how these fine particles are created as well. Did a lot of research on abrasives. But I don't want to sh*t in anyones's garden if you know what I am saying.)
 
Last edited:
I would aso argue that a 240mm+ long super thin bevel (0.05mm height) on a kitchen knife is even harder freehand compared to a small fixed blade with a 1mm+edge where it's way easier to feel/see if you actually hit the bevel.

That being sad, I sold my guided system a while ago 😂
In fact, most people seem to find it easier, myself included, when compared to a short EDC knife which often features a pronounced belly which is harder to follow compared to the much less acute curvature on a chef knife. That being said, it's all about practise. And even guided systems don't take human error away entirely - in fact there is more you can do wrong with a guided system than many people realize I think. I for example did use way too much pressure back in the day when I started out. It all comes down to personal skill and not gear and equipment - like with pretty much everything I think. ...following that Principe, we can see simple steels outcut highest end "super steels" because they are not properly heat treated. (Worth checking out in that regard is the "working edge retention" tab in the following document:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/u/0/d/1PzXZEuyMtOMoSDhyFUfDNV9MNbztMEvZ3OgRa6yT7QU/htmlview#
Really liking this thread by the way. I should spend more time on this forum. Everyone is so polite and wants to geek out - love it!!
 
I would aso argue that a 240mm+ long super thin bevel (0.05mm height) on a kitchen knife is even harder freehand compared to a small fixed blade with a 1mm+edge where it's way easier to feel/see if you actually hit the bevel.

That being sad, I sold my guided system a while ago 😂
Possibly, but on a personal level, I have an easier time with kitchen knives. Partially because of width of my stones and partially because of stiper curve on smaller knives.

I am actually considering buying a guided system for folders and small fixed blades.

The only guided system I wouldn't mind trying on kitchen knives would be one of the bogdan versions or the one Uwe built. Both hard or impossible to get and very expensive.
 
Possibly, but on a personal level, I have an easier time with kitchen knives. Partially because of width of my stones and partially because of stiper curve on smaller knives.

I am actually considering buying a guided system for folders and small fixed blades.

The only guided system I wouldn't mind trying on kitchen knives would be one of the bogdan versions or the one Uwe built. Both hard or impossible to get and very expensive.
Have you considered the Hapstone sharpener with magnetic attachment? I love using it for chef knives.
 
The only guided system I wouldn't mind trying on kitchen knives would be one of the bogdan versions or the one Uwe built. Both hard or impossible to get and very expensive.
I sent you a link
 
I would also love to try one of these high polished edges of vancron/s390 on a chef knife ;)
The most wear resistance steels I found reasonable for hand sharpening for me personally were probably 1.2562 and hap40 so far.
 
I would also love to try one of these high polished edges of vancron/s390 on a chef knife ;)
The most wear resistance steels I found reasonable for hand sharpening for me personally were probably 1.2562 and hap40 so far.
I can’t imagine how much these would cost especially vancron. I’ve sharpened 1.2562, zwear, vanadis 23, cpm-m4, T1, hap40, m390 and k390 in kitchen knives. Using vitrified diamond stones they all sharpen fine. Now, thinning mono steel knives in these steels by hand would be a major pain.
 
I do have diamond stones, too, but by hand it was hard to get a good edge on s290 for example, for me of course. With a system it was OK.

I wouldnt even want to sharpen them, just playing around and try toughness and edge retention 😁
 
Got myself a pocket knife with Vancron Superclean steel recently, gotta play around with it. I agree that free hand sharpening and going for super fine edge is hard (if not next to impossible).

About the longer edge holding with finer edge - Outpost 76 did some test with more common steels and did not find much of a difference. He uses diamond hones and pastes as far as I know.
 
Which version do you have and which stones do you use for it?
I have the M2 version and use the metallic bonded CBN stones from practical sharpening for it. The magnetic mounting solution has pros and cons. If I was to buy just one system, I would get one with clamps. But the magnetic one perfectly compliments my Wicked Edge.
 
Got myself a pocket knife with Vancron Superclean steel recently, gotta play around with it. I agree that free hand sharpening and going for super fine edge is hard (if not next to impossible).

You are probably referring to Vanax Superclean I presume? Because last time I checked (could be wrong meanwhile of course, the market moves fast!) I was the only maker using Vancron Superclean for folding knives and they haven't appeared on the secondary (yet) afaik.
But the major reason I say this is because these two steels tend to get confused a lot - besides their similar name; the fact that they both have a significant amount of nitrogen alloyed in doesn't exactly help with avoiding confusions. Yet they are two very very different and different performing steels. And both very high end at that. Yet Vancron Superclean is clearly closer to the pinnacle of steel engineering compared to Vanax Superclean. Also has about 2 times the edge retention of Vanax Superclean - which is already high.
And yes, plus the findings of Outpost 76 regarding edge retention of fine edges are also telling us that the heat treatment is a very big, I'd dare to say the main factor regarding whether a steel holds an edge longer with a fine edge. But we need more data on this so I don't wanna lean myself out of the window too much here. Much interesting stuff to come for sure from the community!
 
Last edited:
I would need you to be more specific. 😅 Because "semi stainless steel" can be anything from CPM 3V which is still good to sharpen with silicon carbide all the way up to S390 Microclean which features a lot of Vanadium carbides which require either diamond or cbn. (Page 4 and 5 of this link will shed some light on this: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAAegQIAxAC&usg=AOvVaw1TnRYOYFdHpirb9TIR3wFH)
So to be on the safe side, just go with either resin bound, vitrified or metallic resin bound diamond stones - or CBN, if you don't mind spending extra cash. 400, 1000, 6000 grit, then a few passes on a 1 micron strop for your use case. Send me a DM if you want some product links/brand names.
I wrote you a DM, thanks. :)
 
Back
Top