A Trip to Wales

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cotedupy

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[The following posts are copied from some I made a few days ago on B&B. Note that of the stones I mention; it's only the final one - the Penrhiw Hone - that I think is particularly good for general purpose kitchen knife edges. The others are all slates and give high-level, refined finishes, more suited to razor honing, yanagiba, or fine polishing].

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The United Kingdom, perhaps even moreso than Japan, can lay claim to having the greatest breadth, depth, and sheer number of historically quarried whetstones of any nation on earth. And the jewel in the crown of The Union is, undoubtedly: Wales!

From the Cambrian silkstones of the south, to the sandstones of Gwespyr and Waun y Llyn on the northern coast, via the blue slates of Aberllefenni, the green and purple stones of the Nantlle Valley, and the famous novaculites found alongside - nowhere else in the world will you encounter such variety of traditional honestones in such a small geographical area as there are here.

Better go to Wales then...

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My primary objective was to establish for certain the origin of the Nantlle Valley Stone, which I had spent some time researching previously. Information on the ground had the Dorothea quarry at Talysarn as a likely candidate, so we positioned ourselves there. And the task proved somewhat easier than expected, we had arrived at night (Wales has effectively no motorways), but going out for a breakfast cigarette in the morning I saw this.

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That's basically a massive slab of Nantlle Valley whetstone on the outside wall of our Airbnb. So there we go: the Nantlle Valley Stone is from Dorothea. But we hadn't come to Wales to steal bits of people's houses, not when the quarry is but a couple of minutes walk away.

Dorothea is stunningly beautiful, now flooded as a lake*, set within an old forest full of crumbling, overgrown, buildings from the works there. And there is slate bloody everywhere.

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And it turns out that the slate at Dorothea it quite varied; the large majority is purple, but within that are seams of green rock, sometimes thick, sometimes thin.

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I tried to pick up as much variety as I could, including some pre-cut pieces I found in one of the abandoned buildings above.

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This next picture is a piece of more typical Nantlle Valley Stone, a dark sea-green-blue colour with wavy black patterns. This seemed to be the least common type, though there was so much stone everywhere that it wasn't difficult to find anything. I was shooting fish in a barrel.

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And finally something that surprised me a little. This is slightly lighter coloured green stone, with pretty, black, crack-like patterns through it. Which you might normally associate with stones from the Glanrafon quarry(s), about seven miles away at the other end of the Nantlle Valley, or even the Fiddich River Stone, but something similar is clearly found at Dorothea too. Like the type above it's a very hard stone, and fine enough for razor finishing.

The second picture below is a whetstone I cut from the rock in the first pic. About 6x3", but so feckin hard that I gave up making it into a perfect rectangle.

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* There are actually a couple of pits at Dorothea, the picture here is of the smaller, I seem not to have taken a picture of the larger one. I was probably too excited by all the slate.

[TBC...]
 
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Onwards then, to Inigo Jones...

IJ are a longstanding quarrier and wholesaler of slate in the area, for many years they supplied AB Salmen with the blue Aberllefeni slate for Yellow Lake Oilstones, the same as their 'Dragon's Tongue' stone is made from today. And also, interestingly, sold stones to The Water of Ayr and Tam O'Shanter Hone Works at certain points.

Today Inigo Jones have a shop, workshop and cafe about 10 mins drive from Dorothea. The yard outside is covered with huge piles of slate from all sorts of different quarries, cut to any size and shape you can imagine. It's a complete treasure trove for the budding slate enthusiast!

You can see here a couple of large rough cut ornamental pieces that show some of the pretty patterns and differences in Dorothea stone.

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It was Roger from Inigo Jones who I emailed about a year ago with pictures of my mysterious green whetstones, and told me they were from the Nantlle Valley, likely Dorothea. He's been working in the industry here for over 50 years, so if there's something you want to know about Welsh slate - Roger's probably your man.

I spent about 20 mins wandering about with him chatting quarries and whetstones, while he recommended me various types. I'd grab likely looking pieces and at the end we went to the workshop shed and he cut them to spec for me.

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I ended up with ten stones of various flavours for the princely sum of £45. Here are some of them:

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Top:

Dragon's Tongue. This is the standard 8x2x0.5"I also got a double thickness custom cut for @ables. The modern DT stones I've had seem a little coarser and faster than the old YL versions. Maybe 6-7k.

L to R:

Penrhyn Heather Red. The purple-red Heather stones from the Penrhyn quarry in northern Snowdonia come in various flavours, and are apparently held in high regard as fine honestones. Just the previous week Roger had been cutting some for an order, I assume for a retailer. The Red version is a very fine grained and quite soft stone.

Penrhyn Heather Grey. The 'Grey' Penrhyn Heather is a typical purple-with-green-orbs type stone. It's noticeably harder than the Ruby and perhaps not quite as fine. This reminds me of the new La Lune stones.

2 x Cwt y Bugail. Roger was slightly quizzical that I asked for some pieces of this to be cut. It's a very fine grained, prettily patterned hard-ish grey slate. Relatively slow, though does still abrade. Very Thuri like - this is a seriously classy razor stone. Cwt y Bugail means 'the shepherd's hut', the quarry is on the other side of Snowdon, near Moel Siabod.


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[TBC...]
 
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I've since made a kickass Welsh combi with the Dragon's Tongue by epoxying it to a thin piece of Nantlle Valley Whetstone I got in a mystery-ebay-stone punt about six months ago.

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[TBC...]
 
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After the excellence of Inigo Jones the next stop was lunch at very lovely local pub, supplemented by backgammon and Welsh lessons from the barman.

I found it quite interesting that in our time here I didn't hear English spoken once, apart from when people were talking to us. Cymraeg is very much the primary language in Snowdonia; spoken by everybody young and old, to an extent that you don't see so much in Ireland, even in the wildest parts of the west. But then of course the Welsh and their language didn't endure quite the level of oppression that Ireland did, so perhaps not so surprising after all.

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Anyhow, after the pub our final attempt of the day was to be the Penrhiw Hone Quarry, the other side of Mt. Snowdon on the slopes of Moel Siabod. I'd read about this place in a couple of old posts on SRP, and also in an interesting blog post here, where the intrepid explorer had found it:

'frustratingly hard to locate on the ground. The quarry lies hidden amongst an active conifer forest plantation with sections both cleared and replanted since maps were last drawn. I only managed to locate the quarry face at a distance across impassable blanket bog before the light faded.'

Well, guess what? Exactly the same thing happened to us. This is what the Penrhiw Hone Quarry looks like at dusk from 200m to 300m away.

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The problem was that everything in between where I was standing to take that picture and the quarry itself was deep marsh / bog and you simply couldn't have got there on foot. We were also about an hour walk away from our car through a pine forest, and needed to get back onto a path before dark.

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I'm sure there must be an easier way to get to the quarry, by approaching from the north or north-east. But maps make it look like you should come from the south or south-east, while not telling you that much of the terrain turns out to be completely impassable. We'd already had to turn back from a number of possible 'shortcuts' earlier.

All was not lost however, because what our man in the blog post above may not have realised (and which I, being a seasoned expert, did) was that all of the rock on the ground around where we were standing was... novaculite. As I knew the Penrhiw Hone was, so I picked up as much as I could carry, and fecked off.

This then is what a load of raw Welsh novaculite looks like, in the third picture you can see the very typical flakey, splintery character the stone has.

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But boy was all that hassle worth it, because the Penrhiw Hone is exceptionally good.

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Interestingly; despite being novaculite (the SG is around 2.71) the stone is softer and easier to flatten and shape than the Nantlle Valley and Glanrafon slates, at least on belts and sandpaper.

It's also one of, if not the fastest Idwal type stone I've ever used. Even just from a quick, cursory runout the edge below is absolutely magic.

I'd also say, given the above and the way that the patterns in this stone look to my eye: it's quite possible that the Penrhiw quarry was the source for the stones that James Howarth and Sons sold as 'Grecian Hones'. I'll have to flatten and try out more pieces of it, but the stones are potentially very, very similar.





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[Fin.]
 
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Stones leave me speechless, but the scenery just as much so. I love this thread. Only had a chance to skim but when I have more time I'm definitely gonna go thru all the details you so carefully documented
 
Cheers everyone! Glad people enjoyed it.

Fun weekend, with a lot of 'hits'. I'm certainly feeling a little bit smug about my whetstone-spotting abilities atm, especially finding the Penrhiw stone in the gloaming on the outskirts of the forest, cos frankly raw pieces of Welsh novaculite look much like any other random lump of grey rock.

I might have to get myself back there at some point, having seen how good it is. Because if you can actually get to the Penrhiw quarry and one of the abandoned buildings next to it, there's apparently a big old pile of pre-cut sharpening stones waiting for you. At least there was about 15 years ago when these pics were taken...

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I’m sick of your ****, Oli. 🤣


“Look at me. I take a step and trip over five star polishing stones. The burden I carry, I tell you.”



(Lucky so and so)

Haha! TBF - of those stones it's probably only the Penrhyn Red that would be good for polishing, the other slates are very good razor stones, but won't polish very well because they're pretty hard.

Just went and had a try out of the PR for you though. This is a good polish, but has some visible fine scratch pattern on jigane that you often get with slates. Pretty nice I think, but it's not going to replace posh Japanese polishing stones any time soon.

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@cotedupy's natural stones speak Welsch. :)

Seriously, you have to have the most globally diverse selection of natural sharpening stones of anyone I've ever encountered.

What countries or regions do you have stones from @cotedupy?


Well now there's a question! Umm, I'll compile a list later...

How many countries do you reckon it'll come out at? It might be less than you think, as there aren't a massive number of countries with a particularly well-recorded history of whetstone production. Because you can sharpen things with most common types of rock - people probably just used whatever was nearby, without them necessarily ever being sold or documented.
 
It's gotta be at least four or five different countries. And then probably quite a bit of diversity within some them. How many stones do you have from different parts of GB?
 
It's gotta be at least four or five different countries. And then probably quite a bit of diversity within some them. How many stones do you have from different parts of GB?


Ah yeah, it’ll certainly be more than that! I reckon maybe 15 or so.

But that’s perhaps not all that many considering a.) I have well north of 100 natural whetstones. And b.) I go out of my way to try to find weird/interesting stuff.

Watch this space...
 
And I still have some you don't. How is that possible. LOL. I think you need a labeled CF.


Oh yes, that'd be nice. And maybe throw in the labelled Turkish while you're at it. And your entire coticule and jnat collections... should keep me going for a while. ;)
 
This thread is kind of my "dream thread"...I totally love the mysterious lanscape as found in Wales, Scotland, the west of Ireland and elsewhere on the British Isles, I love peat bogs (being a biologist who spezializes in a kind of creatures which live there), and I love natural sharpening stones...So to connect all these three things within a single trip is really kind of dream comes true :)
 
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