Advice for scratches where I missed

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muru

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Hi All,

Looking to get some advice. I wimped out on attempting to thin this wide bevel yoshi and decided to just sharpen the edge. Turns out it didn't matter, cause I hit the other bevel anyway :D.

On the bright side the knife is sharper than when it came from the factory (i think? it was able to do that folded paper on the table and push cut thing...)

Below is the picture, I went angle too low on the tip and hit the other bevel in a couple of other spots. Any advice on how to restore that finish (sandpaper? what grit?)? It looks like a brushed/matte finish. This will be good to know since when I go to thin I'm sure I'll have to go through the same process.

At least I managed to fix those mistakes on the other side of the knife. Any other advice based on the picture of anything I'm doing wrong?

20200516_180123.jpg
 

drsmp

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If you have it try micro mesh first. Then I’d try some 800ish mud on the micromesh to try and recreate the frost/kasumi . I think sandpaper will give you a shiny spot
 

muru

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ah kasumi finish that's what it's called... couldn't remember

I should mention all I have is a KDS 1000/6000 combo.

so should I just tape off the hagane and the tsuchime section and get to sanding?

also is there an easy way to bring back the clear line between the polished hagane and misty jigane at the lamination line? My polished cutting edge is only a fraction of the exposed core steel (I assume that’s how it’s supposed to be, unless I’m supposed to have a zero grind from the lamination down...)
 

Knife2meatu

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Muddied King 1k produces a decent dark haze and contrast. I don't know that I'd trust myself to get it to blend evenly though, so I'm loath to recommend trying it.
 
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drsmp

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Please try the micromesh first , much easier to blend. Sandpaper will be a can of worms! 1000 mud should work ok. Put the mud on a small felt pad or piece of the micromesh, easy to control and blend
 

muru

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Please try the micromesh first , much easier to blend. Sandpaper will be a can of worms! 1000 mud should work ok
I have no idea what micromesh is or blending is ha! Guessing I can get something like the below? What grit 1500x? Guessing I can't get it at home depot...

Is the process then that I rub the micromesh on the 1000 grit stone to create a slurry/mud and use that on the knife?

 
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drsmp

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Yes that’s micromesh get the whole set. They are basically super fine sandpaper but they don’t leave obvious scratches like sandpaper will. Use a mid grade grit with some water to remove the scratches - sand in one direction. If these are obvious grind marks already on the blade follow that direction. If not go heel to toe. If you aren’t making progress or your scratches are real deep go down a few grits. Once it looks good you can go up with a quick progression to higher grits to polish. If the frosty areas don’t look good use your flattening stone or nagura to create some 1000 mud (or a piece of regular 400 grit sandpaper ) dab one of the higher grit pads in the mud and use light pressure on the frosty area to polish . By blend I mean lightly polish /feather onto the areas around the messed up spot
 

muru

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Another thought... given it's a wide bevel and I haven't been thinning while I sharpen.

Should I just thin it a bit on the muddy 1K side of the KDS, that way I'm less worried about recreating the frosty finish and I will have the same finish throughout.

Though I wonder what a king 1K finish looks like... hopefully it will just be dark hazy as described above without being too scratchy.

Will it show good contrast with the core steel?

Chris
 

Jmz76

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Good info to have , thanks ! I had the same question
 

M1k3

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Another thought... given it's a wide bevel and I haven't been thinning while I sharpen.

Should I just thin it a bit on the muddy 1K side of the KDS, that way I'm less worried about recreating the frosty finish and I will have the same finish throughout.

Though I wonder what a king 1K finish looks like... hopefully it will just be dark hazy as described above without being too scratchy.

Will it show good contrast with the core steel?

Chris
1k side will generally make the cladding quite dark. The 6k side can give decent contrast if you work up some mud first. But, in my experience, it can occasionally leave errant small scratches. The 1k I haven't had that issue.
 

Dendrobatez

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3m polish paper

These are what I like for removing light to medium scratches - they start at a low grit but are not aggressive at all so it leaves a lot of room for error. I wrap mine around a belt conditioning block but a cork/large eraser/hard felt pad all work well.
I dont usually worry about contrast with the core steel so I cant comment there.
 
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