Of course. Generally speaking, Japanese knives will have harder steel and thinner edges than typical western fare and especially compared to the crappy stuff. Crappy western knives can take a lot of abuse because the steel is soft and the edge bevels are thicker. Japanese knives are more vulnerable to edge (or worse) damage so one needs to exercise some more care when first starting out. Knives like those from Takamura are thin even by Japanese standards so just require increased awareness.
Now, I'm the first to say that the fragility of Japanese knives is often overhyped, especially by some vendors, but there is no arguing there is some basis of truth in it. So the thinner the staring edge, when you're new, the more careful you need to be as you learn how they perform and react. That's all. So by getting a brand/offering that is a little thicker but still far better than western crap, then it just gives a little more cushion when learning.
As for SG2/R2, it's just a little more prone to fragility and a little more stubborn to raise a burr when sharpening than other steels, especially the broadly available "paper steel" families of aogami, ginsan, and shirogami. So, combined with a very thin edge, you need to be just a touch more attentive and it can be a touch more challenging to start out sharpening.
To be clear, none of this, in my opinion, is monumental and as long as you're mindful in use and conscious of it in sharpening, you'll be fine. There's no arguing the value in a Takamura and it will undoubtedly blow your mind when you use it! So congrats there.
The thin edge will also aid in sharpening.
So then a little broader perspective... When I see a person who is new to both Japanese knives and sharpening targeting a knife like a Kurosaki, I immediately think that the person is fixated on looks, that it is stainless and that the steel is said to have good edge retention so it will last longer while they learn to sharpen. Of course that can be wrong, it's just the flag that pops up for me. And to be clear, I had some of that myself and did in fact own a Yu Kurosaki SG2 bunka early on. Great knives so again, not knocking the knife at all. There is so much out there that makes us hesitant, if not fearful of the non-stainless (aka carbon) steels that stainless or stainless clad helps provide a bit of a mental security blanket. That combined with a steel that provides a longer lasting edge, reported great performance, and sexy looks make it very attractive. But in fact a $100ish iron clad, carbon core, rustic offering might be better suited. Not necessarily, but possibly.
Further, I would encourage you to not look much further for replacements and different knives yet. You have the Takamura on the way, and again, it's a fantastic knife, so get it and use and really pay attention to it and how you feel about it. Does the balance feel right? Western handled knives will balance further back than wa handled knives. Is the spine too thin? Does it hurt after a while of use? Is the length right? Does food stick more than you like? Do you like the profile or would you like something flatter, more curved, etc.? Or maybe the more accurate question is, do you think you would like to try something different in any of those things?
It can take some amount of trial and error to focus in on what you like. For some of us it is more and for some less but most of us do not land on our preferred knife on the first one. That's part of the fun. It doesn't make any one knife bad at all, just not your style. Or, you may try different things and find yourself somewhere down the road right back at that Takamura. But you'll have a much better understanding of why.
As to starting out sharpening, there are varying schools of thought there as well. I like to think of them in three very broad categories of coarse, medium, and high(er). The most common crowd is the medium and often this is represented by the 1k stone. The idea here is the 1k is a good all purpose stone that can do a little grinding but still give a bit of a refined edge and is sort of the safe approach. The coarse crowd says to just drop down in grit so you get a burr quicker to understand what you're doing and coarse stones must form the basis of all sharpening anyway so why not start there? The high(er) crowd says you're getting a knife that usually has at least a decent, if not awesome edge, so you won't need to do much work on it for a while and a higher grit stone is more forgiving for starting out.
That's super simplified but you get the idea. I tend to have about one and a half feet in the coarse crowd.
Long I know, hope it helps some.
