Thanks for the insights Inferno! This block was stabilized so I think it should bond well on this piece. However, I have some other unstabilized wood that I plan to use in another project where that may come into play.
Getting really nice crisp facets now! Looking great, keep it up.
I would suggest a med. thick CA glue.
They inclusions in burl may look awesome and give character but they also provide an area for a stress fracture, and those are bad mmmkay.
For filling - something I do is fill, usually with cheap 5 min epoxy, and then sand after about 20 or 30 mins, before it has set completely hard. It gets some of the wood dust in there and gives a seamless colour and finish with the rest of the wood.
Tho tbh following advice from Tim R, or anyone else, is probably a better bet!
I like the spacers a lot. Really nice job. I've left my project handles sitting in my garage for a loooong time. I almost ready to take another crack at a nice wa handle..... But I'm super amateur at this...
I fill burl checks/flaws with medium CA glue, thin for really small ones, not bothering with dust. The repair tends to disappear with clear CA, perhaps leaving an area with a slightly different shine if you're looking REALLY close.
What I have read and looked at on YT seem to indicate CA glue is the preferred method. Some of these inclusions are decent sized, so I think something more viscous is probably what I need. This knife will be a work knife so I definitely want it sealed. I may experiment with some blended dust and some just clear glue and see what the finish looks like after sanding. The wood certainly has enough feature that it should blend in either way. It would be good to get first hand experience doing it both ways and see how it acts. Didn't work on it at all today because I was putting some finishing touches on a knife display rack. Will probably post some pictures of that too.
I’m the future, it’s a heck of a lot easier to make those adjustments before attaching.
If it’s small enough I use CA for repairs and epoxy for the bigger bits. I also keep different dusts around for filling. Sometime black looks good, which can be achieved with ebony dust, graphite or a black CA (starbond medium thick black)
I agree entirely. I kind of liked the rustic character of the inclusions, so was going to leave them, but Tim warned me about the potential weak points that they might present. Actually knocked the handle off to fill the gaps. I fine sand with sandpaper spray glued to a piece of tile. Would have been pretty tough to get in there cleanly with the blade on.
Thank you for looking out for the newbie! Your work is awesome!
A couple of new projects I finished recently. Not all wa handles. One wa, one western, and credit @Chang for letting me check out some heart shaped handles that he had in his collection. I have yet to use one at work, but I would agree with him that this is a very comfortable handle design.
A one piece wa in cocobolo
A western rehandle from a similar block of wood.
Yoshikane with walnut burl and horn ferrule
Mazaki KU in natural koa, copper spacers (rear one for balance. Mazaki is a sturdy beast) and burl ferrule
And finally the new Konosuke HH with stabilized mango and blond horn
Working on this stuff is loads of fun. Problem is, I have almost finished rehandling all of the knives I like to use. Hmmmmmm......buy more?
When working with burls with checks and inclusions, I will usually sand once with 80 grit, clean it up and paint the entire handle with a thick coat of CA. Then I finish with my normal progression, checking to make sure the CA is removed from the flat surfaces and only left in the voids. Good piece of mind.
Thank you NO ChoP! That is a good tip. I had never thought to do that. I have been sanding the handle to its final shape, then just filling those gaps with CA. I have noticed that sometimes there is a slightly noticeable difference in the finish between the areas where I used CA vs those that I didn't. I guess the other benefit would be that some deep grain lines would be filled as well.