anybody specialize in takedas?

[frombaltimore]

good afternoon good people. i have a takeda 210 nas that is in desperate need of a sharpening. my local sharpener is constantly suggesting I let him get rid of the scandi grind for a more traditional edge, but I want to keep the original edge geometry for as long as i can. can anyone suggest a good place i could take/send the knife?

 

[jedy617]

Say less fam

 

[Bico Doce]

District Cutlery usually alters the grind significantly. The example above doesn’t even look like a takeda anymore. Not sure if this meets OPs requirements

 

[frombaltimore]

Say less fam

ha. this is my local shop. and i unfortunately don’t want this done to my knife.

 

[frombaltimore]

District Cutlery usually alters the grind significantly. The example above doesn’t even look like a takeda anymore. Not sure if this meets OPs requirements

correct. i love the food release on my takedas, and absolutely don’t want to lose it by aggressively thinning it.

 

[Bico Doce]

@KasumiJLA recently did some great work on his own Takeda. Maybe shoot him a DM?

 

[frombaltimore]

@KasumiJLA recently did some great work on his own Takeda. Maybe shoot him a DM?

much appreciated. thank you

 

[Just a DK]

@KasumiJLA recently did some great work on his own Takeda. Maybe shoot him a DM?

The fee's associated with mailing it to Canada and back might not be worth it unfortunately...

 

[jedy617]

FWIW I've also seen posts where they keep the scandi low bevel grind. This was just their last post and grabbed it quickly

 

[jedy617]

For example:

 

[kdizzog6]

Do you need a full sharpening? Honestly, being as thin as they are, a couple stokes on a good stone might be all you need. Just a thought. And yeah, I agree with above, thinning would take away what we all love about the takeda grind.

 

[frombaltimore]

For example:

yup, and they have done mine a couple of times while keeping the scandi grind. but

Do you need a full sharpening? Honestly, being as thin as they are, a couple stokes on a good stone might be all you need. Just a thought. And yeah, I agree with above, thinning would take away what we all love about the takeda grind.

ha. yeah, it does. this particular takeda has become like the go to knife for all the youngsters in the kitchen who have not great knives at the moment. so it gets used a whole lot. i have another AS one that is just for me.

 

[jedy617]

ahh got it, didn't see you have already been going there

 

[Yoshi]

Takedas are pretty easy to sharpen imo, I think there's a YouTube vid on knife wear's channel on it

 

[KasumiJLA]

@KasumiJLA recently did some great work on his own Takeda. Maybe shoot him a DM?

Thanks for mentioning me! I already replied to him via DM.

As @Just a DK said, it's nonsense to send me a knife only for sharpening. Here in Canada (Quebec) I pay taxes (15%) on any amount over $60. So on a knife that is 100% insured for this value, it's about $90 in taxes, apart from customs fees. It's roughly $100USD in total and that's without counting shipping fees. I obviously advised to find someone closer to make it more realistic.

I hope you can find a simpler solution and above all closer to where you live!

 

[frombaltimore]

For example:

he’s done this exact sharpening for my knives before. but the problem is, he hates doing it. so aside from hearing him complain about it, which i can more than deal with, he’s charging me around 80 dollars for a sharpening that includes no thinning/repairs.

 

[jedy617]

he’s done this exact sharpening for my knives before. but the problem is, he hates doing it. so aside from hearing him complain about it, which i can more than deal with, he’s charging me around 80 dollars for a sharpening that includes no thinning/repairs.

$80 a knife? Dang, is the knife very worn down/used?

 

[frombaltimore]

$80 a knife? Dang, is the knife very worn down/used?

not the times i took it. he just really, really dislikes sharpening them, so he’s taxing for the inconvenience. and i’m not knocking him for it, just looking for an alternative.

 

[steveo]

Ryan's a member here now, maybe he can explain? @District Cutlery

 

[ethompson]

The displeasure tax might be real... But in fairness, a Takeda is meant to be sharped along the full bevel to a zero edge, which actually makes them quite time consuming to sharpen relative to a discrete apex. So thinning and sharpening are basically the same.

 

[frombaltimore]

The displeasure tax might be real... But in fairness, a Takeda is meant to be sharped along the full bevel to a zero edge, which actually makes them quite time consuming to sharpen relative to a discrete apex. So thinning and sharpening are basically the same.

ah. that makes sense. i am sure that is where the displeasure comes from.

 

[ethompson]

ah. that makes sense. i am sure that is where the displeasure comes from.

To be clear though, I think maintaining that is important for the performance of the knife. Just kind of comes with the scandal-grind territory. If you have an older one that is more thinly forged with taller bevels, I find you can get away with having a little convexity from the lamination line down which means you can do touchups without needing to hit the full bevel every-time.

 

[KasumiJLA]

To be clear though, I think maintaining that is important for the performance of the knife. Just kind of comes with the scandal-grind territory. If you have an older one that is more thinly forged with taller bevels, I find you can get away with having a little convexity from the lamination line down which means you can do touchups without needing to hit the full bevel every-time.

Good point. This is exactly what I did with mine by placing the bevel flat on stone and raising it by 1~2° or so. It's also even easier to strop it on my leather afterwards by raising the angle to maybe 3~4°.

Since my last touch up on my 3k stone maybe 2 weeks ago I still don't feel the need to strop my Takeda on my leather with my 8k diamond paste. This knife really surprises me a lot on its ability to hold its cutting edge even though it's been my daily driver since I received it.

 

[District Cutlery]

he’s done this exact sharpening for my knives before. but the problem is, he hates doing it. so aside from hearing him complain about it, which i can more than deal with, he’s charging me around 80 dollars for a sharpening that includes no thinning/repairs.

not the times i took it. he just really, really dislikes sharpening them, so he’s taxing for the inconvenience. and i’m not knocking him for it, just looking for an alternative.

Ryan's a member here now, maybe he can explain? @District Cutlery

I assure you I'm not taxing you for the inconvenience. I'm charging you for the time it takes to get it right and that I take pride in my work to do it right. I can sharpen over 20 knives freehand on stones in the time it takes to correctly sharpen a Takeda to any professional standard. Do the math. Let me assure you, Takeda's very rarely just need a touch up. They are always bent, they always have small chips, the blue super steel hates abrasives and dishes out your stones that you have to flatten them in between sharpening one single knife. It's the knife of 5000 strokes. The truth is, from an economic and business standpoint, I'm undercharging for sharpening Takedas.

Why do I sometimes remove the scandi grind and establish more traditional edge geometry? Mostly because the end user has not properly maintained the scandi and what they bring me is just a stub, an unsusable trace of what once was. To then reestablish a proper scandi on stones is impossible. By establishing more traditional edge geometry, it's much easier for the customer to maintain that simple primary edge if they have just the basic aptitude for sharpening. If the knife has an original scandi that is in good shape, I always try to keep it as is, but that takes just as much time as thinning it out, if not more.

To be honest, I do complain when Takedas come in to the shop because I have to break the news to the customer that it's going to be expensive, and that I don't even break even at the price that I'm charging. But, I'm always happy when the customer gets them back because I know I've made the exhausting effort to make them as good as they've ever been.

 

[fortheloveofmoar]

So much knowledge here. Thanks Ryan and JLA and EThompson.

 

[Keithpaints]

Thought scandi grinds were better for bush cutting blades. Food knives can be robust at the spine but grind starts much higher thinning to the blade road. Thin behind the edge makes good chef Knives. Thinned edges in production kitchen benefit with micro bevel. It helps preserve the geometry of blade after many sharpenings. Also gives the thin edge strength for hours of cutting. It is a very narrow bevel on an already thin blade road. Japanese SB like Yanagiba sharpened without micro are some of sharpest of any knives, must use care as the edge is fragile. The ultimate fish & sushi blades.