Anyone have a heat treat recipe from 125sc
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fast oil is enough if the blade is thin ,but for any question , send an email to Achim W , he made this steel and have all informations you need to know.
inferno
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) <*))))><
what about just hardening at 800-850 until one shade over non magnetic and then just 165-200C temper 2 times x 1h?
would that work? i mean its pretty simple this. you harden and then you test it with a file. does it slide? then its hardened.
does it dig in. then its not hardened. its easy as that. (imo) should be like glass.
then just temper to taste. and you might even go overboard and snap off a part to check grain size. should be dull silver gray all over with a such a small grain size that you can't even tell there is a grain to it. then its good.
i dont have an electronic oven so i do all my ht in a house of bricks with a weed burner shooting in from the side. and all i need is a magnet and judgement of colour. dalman thaught me this. you want even color in the whole piece though. this the hardest part. bright orange/sun yellow for me.
i dunk in warm oil 60-100C. always worked out well. i'm thinking since this is a very high carbon steel you might wannna go 2 shades above non magnetic. but that its pretty much.
would that work? i mean its pretty simple this. you harden and then you test it with a file. does it slide? then its hardened.
does it dig in. then its not hardened. its easy as that. (imo) should be like glass.
then just temper to taste. and you might even go overboard and snap off a part to check grain size. should be dull silver gray all over with a such a small grain size that you can't even tell there is a grain to it. then its good.
i dont have an electronic oven so i do all my ht in a house of bricks with a weed burner shooting in from the side. and all i need is a magnet and judgement of colour. dalman thaught me this. you want even color in the whole piece though. this the hardest part. bright orange/sun yellow for me.
i dunk in warm oil 60-100C. always worked out well. i'm thinking since this is a very high carbon steel you might wannna go 2 shades above non magnetic. but that its pretty much.
Cheers for the thoughts, was hoping for some real world experience to cut down on the experimentation.
As examples there are pieces of information that are good to know
O1 likes a soak at temp before quench
Aebl should be quenched from the lower end of the range if you aren’t doing cryo
52100 benefits from some heat cycling before hardening.
Seems like I’ll have to experiment myself or just stick to the data sheet
As examples there are pieces of information that are good to know
O1 likes a soak at temp before quench
Aebl should be quenched from the lower end of the range if you aren’t doing cryo
52100 benefits from some heat cycling before hardening.
Seems like I’ll have to experiment myself or just stick to the data sheet
That's for "by eye" - HT and sure it works but it might be that op have better gear and wants more precision. And btw 125sc is more sensitive to overheating than lower C-steels.
From own experience the advice I can give with this steel is you absolutely should verify hardness and test out what works for you in your shop.
Cheers! I’ve got a hardness tester so can get some HRC values provided I can avoid too much decarb on the surface.
I know groundflatstock in uk have atleast apt-461, don’t know but a even better product is condurzal z1100. Both work anyway
Yeah have been using the condursal with some mixed results, sometimes it stays on great and other times flakes off leaving a fair bit of patchiness. Was cleaning with acetone before applying, and just ordered some isopropyl alcohol to see if that’s better.
Had some decarb on aebl in pouches recently where I don’t think I got a good enough seal, so will give the condursal a try on some leftovers to see if that stands up better.
Had some decarb on aebl in pouches recently where I don’t think I got a good enough seal, so will give the condursal a try on some leftovers to see if that stands up better.
