Apparently I can make a wa handle now.

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Yeah, I'm really seeing the appeal in Koa. The camera can't capture the real beauty in it's movement. This piece has a very parallax 3d look I'm kinda stupid because I don't remember where I got it from. I want to say Rogue 108 but I'm not sure. The knife was purchased about 3 years ago from Maxim and originally came with a burnt chestnut handle.

After I glued all the pieces up I was unsure about the design choice but upon completion I'm really digging the fiber spacer combo. Starting to run out of knives here.
 
Do you actually use a dowel inside the handle or you glue the parts and then drill the opening for the tang? One way or another - the results look fantastic. I really like how nicely and evenly the edges at the bottom of the handle are rounded.
 
As I understood using metal spaces is difficult. They heat up alot.

The handle looks great. Good proportions, nice color scheme.
How much time did you spent making it?
 
Do you actually use a dowel inside the handle or you glue the parts and then drill the opening for the tang? One way or another - the results look fantastic. I really like how nicely and evenly the edges at the bottom of the handle are rounded.

Thanks. Yes there is a 3/8" dowel connecting the 3 spacers and the ferrule. After everything is glued up and cured (24 hours) I drill the tang hole 1/4" wide and as deep as the tang is long. Then I use a needle file/rasp to widen the slot on both sides until the tang goes in all the way. Then the hole gets filled with dyed epoxy and the knife is inserted.

As I understood using metal spaces is difficult. They heat up alot.

The handle looks great. Good proportions, nice color scheme.
How much time did you spent making it?

Metal spacers are easy if you have sharp tools. It's all the same construction. I did have a hard time with heat during my last handle though. Things got too hot, things went into the trash, things came out of the trash.

On this handle it did seem as though it took much less time. Is that because it was a slightly smaller handle or because I'm getting better/more efficient with the process? Either way the time really flies when I'm down in that basement.
 
Thanks. Yes there is a 3/8" dowel connecting the 3 spacers and the ferrule. After everything is glued up and cured (24 hours) I drill the tang hole 1/4" wide and as deep as the tang is long. Then I use a needle file/rasp to widen the slot on both sides until the tang goes in all the way. Then the hole gets filled with dyed epoxy and the knife is inserted.

Thank you. Did you consider cutting a slot in the dowel before the glue-up? You would have none (or very little) filing left. I am also fighting when making a handle without a dowel - I usually drill 2 - 3 holes that partially overlap with 4mm grill and then finish the work with a file and it also takes for ages. It is much faster when using dowel with a slot - the catch is to make sure the slot is nicely vertical and the slot centred relative to the handle.
 
Thank you. Did you consider cutting a slot in the dowel before the glue-up? You would have none (or very little) filing left. I am also fighting when making a handle without a dowel - I usually drill 2 - 3 holes that partially overlap with 4mm grill and then finish the work with a file and it also takes for ages. It is much faster when using dowel with a slot - the catch is to make sure the slot is nicely vertical and the slot centred relative to the handle.

Yeah I thought about it but decided against it for the reasons stated. Besides, dowels are super soft and file fairly easily if you have the right tools. I had a fine needle file and now I have a diamond tipped needle file that cuts faster so I've been giving that a turn. This last handle had a very small tang so the slot was relatively easy to cut in.
 
Check out the needle rasps on brisa.fi These were recommended to me and I plan on buying a few of these for this very purpose.

Quoting my own post here. I have bought 3 needle rasps (round, square and flat) from them and it turned out that these are the Italian CORRADI raps with 160 mm length. They work very well and speed opening the handle after drilling for tang considerably. I have been using needle files, but those were slow for the job (as expected) - I even managed to break some in the process.
 
It's called "Castin Craft color pigment concentrate" It also says "For coloring polyester and epoxy resins" I found it on Amazon. I don't know if that helps you because of your location. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AHGNNJ6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Sorry for spamming your thread, but I have to share this. I have actually found that exact 1 oz. bottle of pigment on German Amazon ... for 2.700€ - I nearly fell of my chair. I mean, funny pricing can be found there sometimes, but this is just off the chart :)
 
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Sorry for spamming your thread, but I have to share this. I have actually found that exact 1 oz. bottle of pigment on German Amazon ... for 2.700€ - I nearly fell of my chair. I mean, funny pricing can be found there sometimes, but this is just off the chart :)

Old blogpost I found but it is usually due to things like this, although in a slightly updated form:
http://www.michaeleisen.org/blog/?p=358

Basically, a computer sets the price for an item taking into account a bunch of things. ometimes some of those things gets messed up so the price follows suit.
 
Sorry for spamming your thread, but I have to share this. I have actually found that exact 1 oz. bottle of pigment on German Amazon ... for 2.700€ - I nearly fell of my chair. I mean, funny pricing can be found there sometimes, but this is just off the chart :)

That's awesome! Glad to hear it.
 
Those look top-notch! Need to put a couple handles on my to-do list.
 
Quoting my own post here. I have bought 3 needle rasps (round, square and flat) from them and it turned out that these are the Italian CORRADI raps with 160 mm length. They work very well and speed opening the handle after drilling for tang considerably. I have been using needle files, but those were slow for the job (as expected) - I even managed to break some in the process.


These are the rasps I use, love them. Just don't use them on metal spacers or you'll dull the **** out of them straight away.
 
Well I solved the "It takes too long to file out this tang hole by hand" problem.

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Round diamond tipped needle file stuck in the makita drill for the win Bob. This cut my filing time by 2/3 easily.


So what did I make this time? My 6th wa handle for my Itonomon 210mm wa petty. This will be my final wa handle for now as I've run out of knives that I want to rehandle. The rest of my un rehandled wa bocho all have nice ebony and horn handles on them so I'd rather just leave those alone. So, here we go with number 6.

The materials used were blond buffalo horn, elforyn and dyed Oregon maple burl from Burl Source.

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Dude, when you run out of knives to rehandle, then you turn to fish spats, offset spats, sharpening rods...also, try some sayas.

Handles look grade A pimpin' btw....
 
Dude, when you run out of knives to rehandle, then you turn to fish spats, offset spats, sharpening rods...also, try some sayas.

Handles look grade A pimpin' btw....

Thanks a lot!

I have already run out of fish spatulas to rehandle as I've done two now. I have also done 2 sayas now but I only have one piece of saya wood left. Maybe I can get one more out of it. Sharpening rods I'm not so sure about doing the ones I have. I've got the black Mac the hand American glass and the small ruby rod. I would probably destroy all three in the process.
 
You know, the world is aout that that 'you can' - I do nto think you will be short of knives to rehandle :)

That is a fantastic idea with the diamond file and a drill - I will five it a try!
 
Hey Rick, I have to say after reading through this thread and seeing your pictures, i t really makes me want to get out the old woodworking tools and give it a go! These look incredible for your first handles. Can't wait to give it a shot now - thanks for the inspiration!
 
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