Are cheap end grain boards from Amazon any good?

[Ceriano]

I was looking for a cheap cutting board for my bread knives and came across some of these end grain walnut boards on amazon. The reviews are better than booze block.
Are any of these worth considering? What's the difference between no name brand boards with something like boots block or boardsmith? Is walnut too rough on knives?

https://www.amazon.com/Walnut-Cutti...+grain+walnut+,aps,135&sr=8-5#customerReviews

 

[alterwisser]

Walnut is one of the recommended woods for cutting boards, along with Maple and Cherry (mostly imho)....

nothing to worry on that end.

i wouldn’t trust Amazon reviews much though.....

 

[mikemac]

IMHO...it would be extremely rare to get Boos / Boardsmith products at an IKEA price point, and there are some 'between there lines' observations that would cause me to pass...

That said, this: https://www.amazon.com/Wood-Welded-...higan+maple+block&qid=1617189268&sr=8-14&th=1

My mom had one in her kitchen my entire childhood, and I've had two on my countertop for the last 25-ish years. Yes, they are side or edge grain. For my personal price-to-value, no, it doesn't matter. My larger one measures 30x24x1.75 and outside of a mega millions win, I don't think I'll ever have the need to replace it.

 

[Corradobrit1]

I have several boards from this guy. Thoroughly recommended if you want a budget Boos quality end grain that will last. My main board is 5 years old and still looks great. No shrinkage, warpage, splitting. I just oil with mineral oil every 6-8 weeks. He has regular 15% off discounts. I even use a couple of seconds as amplifier stands
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Waln...090701?hash=item3675a6a9cd:g:0qAAAOSw8oFXyJyy

 

[WPerry]

Even if it never directly sees water, wood "moves," expanding and contracting with changes in relative humidity - a big part of furniture or board making is making sure that this movement is anticipated and then doing things to minimize the amount of movement and to allow the movement that's inevitable in a non-destructive way (like splitting apart).

Better boards are going to be made with attention to things like wood moisture content and acclimation, the cupping severity and direction of the growth rings, etc. When you see nice , flat rings in repeating, alternating patterns, you know that some thought (and expensive wood) went in to it. When you see a board with a hodgepodge of ring patterns, sometimes including knots and piths, you know that not much thought went in to it - they had scraps and they used 'em. The board might be fine for a year, or it might be fine for 10, but the odds are much higher that, with the same type of use and care, it's going to crack sooner than a good board.

 

[Ceriano]

IMHO...it would be extremely rare to get Boos / Boardsmith products at an IKEA price point, and there are some 'between there lines' observations that would cause me to pass...

That said, this: https://www.amazon.com/Wood-Welded-Reversible-Butcher-Cutting/dp/B0749DS816/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=michigan+maple+block&qid=1617189268&sr=8-14&th=1

My mom had one in her kitchen my entire childhood, and I've had two on my countertop for the last 25-ish years. Yes, they are side or edge grain. For my personal price-to-value, no, it doesn't matter. My larger one measures 30x24x1.75 and outside of a mega millions win, I don't think I'll ever have the need to replace it.

I believe that’s Michigan maple brand. they only have the edge grain otherwise the quality is top notch.

 

[AT5760]

As a cheap board user, that one you identified is kind of an in-between choice. I bought an acacia end grain board about three years ago for ~$60. It has worked really well, though it seems to dry out easily.

If it's a dedicated bread board, why not go with a less expensive edge grain board? The serrated edges of a bread knife aren't going to care much. An edge grain can work well, particularly if you aren't washing it a ton, which can lead to faster warping.

 

[Ceriano]

As a cheap board user, that one you identified is kind of an in-between choice. I bought an acacia end grain board about three years ago for ~$60. It has worked really well, though it seems to dry out easily.

If it's a dedicated bread board, why not go with a less expensive edge grain board? The serrated edges of a bread knife aren't going to care much. An edge grain can work well, particularly if you aren't washing it a ton, which can lead to faster warping.

Yes for a bread board I’ll probably go with a cheaper edge grain.

 

[nwshull]

Amazon reviews are frequently misleading. These boards should cost more money. Part of it is artisanal, part of it is quality of materials, part of it is workmanship. Materials, Time, Labor.

Family has a woodworking/lumber background and been exposed to woods of varying quality. Boardsmiths quality is much higher. Candidly I don’t feel the same about Boos, though I don’t feel it’s complete **** either. But good North American hardwood costs money. Trees take a long time to grow, and we’ve had periods in our history where a lot of forest was cut down unsustainably. The region of Pennsylvania near my family homestead, which was pretty much deforested by the 20s, so much of the forest is new, smaller trees. Saplings tend not to have as much intense color and have more knots and such which are both structural and hardness issues. Once you harvest lumber, you need to dry it out for a few years before selling it. That also takes time, and could be an area where a cheap board cuts corners. This can damage the board long term, because you're going to have shrinkage and spillage occur if the wood hasn't set. In the case of the example it also appears they use smaller pieces of wood which has disadvantages for more opportunities for warpage.

Once you get away from the wood, it also matters how you construct the board and what machines you use. Good quality machines to plane, saw, and join cost a lot more money. However, they run at lower RPMs and are less likely to cause cosmetic defects like burn on the figure of the wood. There's also an element of precision. Its pretty simply to get two pieces where you can glue them together. It requires a lot more precision to get them to stay together without splitting for years. Multiply that by all the pieces in an end grain board. Lastly, with the upper echelon of end grain boards you're paying for pattern and figure in the board. Each piece is not only put together well but selected for aesthetic.

Personally I don't think there is a cheap end grain option, if you want to buy a board that looks great, performs well, and lasts. I think there are half decent mid price edge grain. I also wouldn't recommend walnut for bread knives. Its a softer wood. I wouldn't spend much if you're going to be taking what's essentially a saw to it.

 

[Cliff]

I have a Boardsmith, which I love, and a couple of synthetic boards--a cheap poly board for bread and nasty stuff and then an Asahi, which is also great in a different way. All this to say, I think it makes sense to spend up on a good wood board; otherwise, I'd go synthetic.

 

[kpham12]

If easy on the edge is what you’re looking for, Amazon’s got a few good looking hinoki cutting boards. Comparable pricing to these cheaper end grain while also being low maintenance as you don’t really need to oil them and at least the one I have is very resistant to warping even when left wet. They also don’t absorb odors much if you splash some water on it before use. Downsides may be they look kind of plain compared to some end grain and will stain/discolor a bit over time, but you can just sand it down. They are VERY light, so maybe feel less “solid” compared to end grain, but much easier to just move to the sink and clean off.

 

[ModRQC]

I have a cheap teak end grain from Amazon. Not bad at all, needs some work done, didn't warp or gone off to hell from some abuse, but it was fully treated and acclimated before use.

 

[LostHighway]

Size and price considered that doesn't look like a great deal to me. My advice for serrated knives is to just buy a plastic board. They aren't great for edges but they aren't all that awful either and they are cheap. Softer woods like Hinoki will get quite scarred quickly if your cutting crusty breads like a proper baguette. If you're dead set on wood my advice would be to buy a Sugar Maple (Acer saccaharum) board either in end grain or edge grain. I'll PM you.

 

[DitmasPork]

I was looking for a cheap cutting board for my bread knives and came across some of these end grain walnut boards on amazon. The reviews are better than booze block.
Are any of these worth considering? What's the difference between no name brand boards with something like boots block or boardsmith? Is walnut too rough on knives?

https://www.amazon.com/Walnut-Cutti...+grain+walnut+,aps,135&sr=8-5#customerReviews

The board in the link is certainly not 'cheap' IMO.

Personally, if looking for a 'cheap' cutting board for bread, using a serrated bread knife, I'd go for an edge-grain over an end-grain—unless really wanting the aesthetics of an end-grain. Nice edge-grain boards can be had for about $30–$50, or cheaper—edge-grains are more robust. Or go really cheap with a bamboo or other, which is what I use.

 

[McMan]

IMHO...it would be extremely rare to get Boos / Boardsmith products at an IKEA price point, and there are some 'between there lines' observations that would cause me to pass...

That said, this: https://www.amazon.com/Wood-Welded-Reversible-Butcher-Cutting/dp/B0749DS816/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=michigan+maple+block&qid=1617189268&sr=8-14&th=1

My mom had one in her kitchen my entire childhood, and I've had two on my countertop for the last 25-ish years. Yes, they are side or edge grain. For my personal price-to-value, no, it doesn't matter. My larger one measures 30x24x1.75 and outside of a mega millions win, I don't think I'll ever have the need to replace it.

I believe that’s Michigan maple brand. they only have the edge grain otherwise the quality is top notch.

+1
This is a longstanding brand. Good quality maple. Made in Michigan.
I'm not the biggest fan of Boos. I think their quality has gone downhill since they got so big. I've had a couple boards from them where the maple is junk.

 

[user 16756]

just be careful to verify the brand when buying cheaper foreign goods on sites like Amazon.

review rating inflation is one thing to worry about, another is that you could just get something materially not the same as what you had ordered.

I too would save the money, go with something a bit cheaper for now and put that money towards a Board Smith, which will last you forever.

 

[MowgFace]

+2 for Michigan Maple.

I got an 18x24 that my Mom liked so much I ended up giving to her. No issues for my sample other than a small chip in the corner from delivery. Its ~5 years old now, and with a few oilings still going strong.

 

[Ceriano]

The board in the link is certainly not 'cheap' IMO.

Personally, if looking for a 'cheap' cutting board for bread, using a serrated bread knife, I'd go for an edge-grain over an end-grain—unless really wanting the aesthetics of an end-grain. Nice edge-grain boards can be had for about $30–$50, or cheaper—edge-grains are more robust. Or go really cheap with a bamboo or other, which is what I use.

Amazon can be hit and miss. I got this walnut knife block from Amazon for $30. Not bad for a pice of solid walnut. Now need more knives to fill it up!

 

[Mikeltee]

I highly recommend the Catskills 19x15 for $70! You will also need a gallon of mineral oil for $20. I got mine 2 weeks ago. I sanded it down in a 80-120-150 progression and then applied a thick coat of mineral oil 3 times a day until it no longer was thirsty. This took 2 weeks and a half gallon. It's absolutely perfect! I'll post a pic later this evening. Regardless what you get, you will need to keep it oiled. The gallon jug is the most cost effective. You will need every bit of it over the course of the years. If you oil every month or so it will last generations.

 

[Ceriano]

Amazon reviews are frequently misleading. These boards should cost more money. Part of it is artisanal, part of it is quality of materials, part of it is workmanship. Materials, Time, Labor.

Family has a woodworking/lumber background and been exposed to woods of varying quality. Boardsmiths quality is much higher. Candidly I don’t feel the same about Boos, though I don’t feel it’s complete **** either. But good North American hardwood costs money. Trees take a long time to grow, and we’ve had periods in our history where a lot of forest was cut down unsustainably. The region of Pennsylvania near my family homestead, which was pretty much deforested by the 20s, so much of the forest is new, smaller trees. Saplings tend not to have as much intense color and have more knots and such which are both structural and hardness issues. Once you harvest lumber, you need to dry it out for a few years before selling it. That also takes time, and could be an area where a cheap board cuts corners. This can damage the board long term, because you're going to have shrinkage and spillage occur if the wood hasn't set. In the case of the example it also appears they use smaller pieces of wood which has disadvantages for more opportunities for warpage.

Once you get away from the wood, it also matters how you construct the board and what machines you use. Good quality machines to plane, saw, and join cost a lot more money. However, they run at lower RPMs and are less likely to cause cosmetic defects like burn on the figure of the wood. There's also an element of precision. Its pretty simply to get two pieces where you can glue them together. It requires a lot more precision to get them to stay together without splitting for years. Multiply that by all the pieces in an end grain board. Lastly, with the upper echelon of end grain boards you're paying for pattern and figure in the board. Each piece is not only put together well but selected for aesthetic.

Personally I don't think there is a cheap end grain option, if you want to buy a board that looks great, performs well, and lasts. I think there are half decent mid price edge grain. I also wouldn't recommend walnut for bread knives. Its a softer wood. I wouldn't spend much if you're going to be taking what's essentially a saw to it.

Are softer wood edge grain boards like cherry hard on knives? I prefer the look of edge grains.

 

[nwshull]

Are softer wood edge grain boards like cherry hard on knives? I prefer the look of edge grains.

In terms of the big 3 North American, Maple is the most durable and ok on knife edges, Walnut is in between, Cherry is the easiest on edges. But your actual edge retention depends on a variety of factors not just what wood you use.

First is the direction of the grain you are cutting. With end grain you're cutting into the fibers of the wood. With edge you're cutting across the fibers. Generally speaking, on intact uniform grain cutting into the grain is easier than cutting across. With softer hardwood like cherry, a edge grain cherry board is easier than an edge grain maple board. A soft wood like hinoki cypress is going to be more forgiving. At what point of hardness does cutting across vs cutting into make it easier I candidly don't know.

But there is a second factor, durability and condition of the cutting surface. Any cutting motion creates divots on the surface but, if you don't keep your knives razor sharp, or you rock chop with repeated cutting motion, you're going to scar your board much faster. At this point the divots in your cutting surface are going to overtime damage the knife edge.

An end grain board you're cutting into the fibers so they come back into place, whereas edge grain you're cutting across the fiber. So overtime edge grain will scar more. Additionally a harder wood is going to be more resistant to this scarring. This is one of the reasons maple is very popular. Many believe a cutting surface of for example bamboo or acacia to be too hard on the edge. Whereas, at least for western repetitive cutting, something like hinoki or even Cherry is too soft and prone to scaring. Maple is just hard enough to resist damage, while also not being murder on the edge. I use an end grain Cherry cutting board, but I keep my knives shaving sharp so minimal force is used and never use a repetitive motion like rock chopping on it. If I was a rock chopper I don't think Cherry viable.

Since edge grain is prone to more scarring unless you're very sparing with your board contact and keep a very very sharp knife, I'm not sure Cherry is a good option as edge grain, unless you've got the sanding and planing tools to resurface the board every year or two.

If you're really set on the look, you may want to consider a friendly synthetic material for cooking prep and a display board of whatever wood you think is prettiest.

 

[MowgFace]

I had zero issues with edge grain maple. As a home cook though, edge retention isn’t a concern